Christmas is only weeks away and I can’t wait for the festive season to start! I love the lights, the pretty decorations and the lovely food.
So I thought I would share one of my favourite Christmas patterns: the Christmas Pudding Crochet Ornament. It is a pretty pattern for making a Christmas Pudding ornament in 3D decorated by some holly and ivy.
It is a lovely decoration for your Christmas tree, garland or wreath. It also makes for a great gift wrapping embellishment for the festive season – or just a present in and of itself! The pattern is written in US terminology. The final ornament will measure approximately 4 x 4 inches or 10.5 x 10.5 cm.
You will find the full pattern on my Etsy store here. The 7 page digital PDF pattern includes:
Instructions for making and assembling the ornament
Row by row instructions, including schematics where needed
Video tutorial to support the pattern instructions
The video tutorials are available to support following the pattern, but these are available also below.
There is also a separate PDF document with step-by-step photo instructions for all the stitches used.
What you will need to make the Christmas Pudding Crochet Ornament:
A size 3.0 crochet hook
Some cotton yarn, I used Scheepjes Catona in Emerald (515), Hot Red (115), Snow White (106) and Root Beer (157)
Do you fancy a quick project that uses up some yarn scraps? Then I hope you try this little pattern! The Amigurumi ‘Book Lover’ bookmark pattern is very beginner-friendly. You also do not need too much yarn and you can whip one up in no time. The pattern is written in US terminology.
If you would like to support my work, you can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern via my Etsy store here.
The final bookmark measures as follows:
Amigurumi book: 6cm long, 4cm wide, and 1.5cm thick
Heart: around 3cm long and wide
Strap: approximately 24cm long
The bookmark’s length can be changed so it can fit larger or smaller books. You can use any yarn you like, but if you want to achieve the same size, I would recommend using the same weight yarn and hook, as described below.
What you will need to make the Amigurumi ‘Book Lover’ bookmark crochet pattern:
This is a beginner-friendly pattern that uses basic crochet stitches.
Single crochet
Half double crochet
Double crochet
Treble crochet
Slip stitch
If you are unfamiliar with any of these stitches, check out the crochet stitch tutorials below:
Watch the video tutorial:
How to crochet the Amigurumi ‘Book Lover’ bookmark:
To make the book cover, pick up the relevant yarn and chain (CH) 12. Place 1 single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook and then place 1 SC in each remaining CH. You should have a total of 11 SCs. CH 1 and turn. Repeat for a total of 17 rows. Do not snip off the yarn.
At the end of the 17th row, make a second SC in the same space as the last stitch and turn your piece sideways so as to put 1 SC in each of the rows starting with the previous row (your second SC counts as being the first ‘sideways’ SC). Continue in this way along your piece until you reach the beginning of the 17th row.
Slip stitch into the first SC and fasten off your yarn. Using your darning needle, weave in your ends.
To make the book pages, pick up the white yarn and CH 12. Make 1 SC in the second CH from hook and place SCs along the rest of your CHs for a total of 11 SCs. CH 1 and turn. Repeat for 17 rows. CH 1 and fasten off your yarn. Weave in your ends.
Make a second piece in the same way, but stop and fasten off your yarn after you have completed the 15th row. Weave in your ends, again.
To make the cheeks, simply CH 3 and slip stitch into the first chain. Fasten off your yarn leaving a bit of a tail so you can use that to sew the cheeks in place.
To assemble your book. Place the book cover on your working area and then on top of it place first the 17 row white piece and then on top of that the 15 row piece. Fold it in half and make sure you are happy with how it looks. Once you are happy, decide where you want to place the safety eyes and cheeks.
I prefer that the cheeks to be placed slightly outside the eyes (see photo below). Then, pick up the book cover piece and weave in the cheeks and tie a small knot on the back of the main piece to secure them. you don’t need to weave in the ends as no one will see the ‘inside. of the book.
Take a darning needle and your black yarn and make the smile. There are lots of ways to do that.
I like to pull the yarn from the back (photo 1) and with my needle go across in a straight line (photo 2). Then with the needle coming from the back to the front, find the middle of that straight line (photo 3) and then by inserting the needle just a bit below that centre point, gently drag the yarn a bit down to form a smile (photo 4). Then take the thread back on to the back side to secure it by going through a space close to where the needle just came out of (photo 5).
Now re-assemble the book with the pages and secure the safety eyes. Make sure the back of the safety eyes penetrate the two pages as this will also help you secure the book and minimise the amount of sewing you need to do later.
Leave the book aside, and now let’s make the strap. Adapt the length of the strap as you please. For this pattern, I chained 61 CHs. Starting again at the second CH from hook, place 1 half double crochet (HDC) in all the CHs for a total of 60 HDCs. CH 1 and place HDCs across the second row. CH 1 and fasten off your yarn, leaving a bit of a tail to secure it to the book later.
You can make the strap white to match the book pages, or a different colour of your preference. it is meant to be a ‘bookmark’ for your amigurumi book, so you can give it your own spin!
For the mini heart, make a magic ring and CH 3. In the magic ring make the following stitches: 4 double crochets (DCs), 2 treble crochets (TR) and then CH 3 and then slip stitch. Repeat the same stitches in reverse order: CH 3, 2 TRs and 4 DCs. Slip stitch into the top CH of the original CH 3. Pull the magic circle to close it tight. Make two of the same hearts. Then, weave in the ends, but on one of the hearts, leave a few inches on one of the ends so you can sew the hearts together.
To finish off the bookmark, place one end of the strap in between the two hearts and using the remaining end and the darning needle, sew the strap and hearts together making sure that the heart is facing the right direction.
Take the other side of the strap and using some white yarn, sew it on the book pages. Using the the same colour yarn as the book cover sew around the book, making sure that the stitches are not too close to the edge making them visible from the sides.
And you are done! Now you can enjoy reading with your new little helper to keep track of where you are.
Mosaic crochet is an amazing technique for intricate patterns, and the Veracruz cushion is a perfect beginner friendly pattern if you are just learning mosaic crochet.
Inspired by the shape of the amazing pyramids found in the modern day Mexican state of Veracruz, this pattern uses mosaic crochet to create a modern ethnic style cushion combining two colours. I used Paintbox DK cotton yarn and a 4.00 mm hook, see more details below.
The cushion measures 18×18 inches and it is made using a back panel with buttonholes so you can easily wash it or replace it if needed!
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
Mosaic crochet is a really fun technique and it only uses two basic stitches: the single crochet stitch and the double crochet stitch. You combine these two stitches to create a design. You do this by utilising the front and back loops of the crochet stitches. You start your piece by forming a base of 2 rows of single crochets worked the back loop. By placing single crochets in the back loop, you can overlay double crochet stitches in the front loop on the previous row, as indicated below. Switching between single and double crochets is what creates the shapes in your piece.
The mosaic crochet technique starts of by making one row of single crochets. You chain 1 and fasten off your yarn. As you will only be working on the front of your piece.
Depending on the pattern, you change colour on the next row. You attach the new colour by chaining 1 and then make a single crochet in the first stitch. You make single crochets in the back loop only until you reach the last stitch. On the last stitch, you make a single crochet. You chain 1 and fasten off your yarn. The photo below highlights which are the front and back loops.
You then pick up the first colour and again start by making a normal single crochet. You then continue by making single crochets in the back loop. As the pattern requires, you place double crochets in the front loop of the corresponding stitch of the previous same coloured row.
This is the basic technique for mosaic crochet. You can add more colours and make very intricate and beautiful designs.
If you want a step by step tutorial for the single and double crochet stitches check out the video tutorials below:
The back panel also uses slip stitches, you can find a tutorial for this here:
What you will need to make the Veracruz crochet cushion:
This is a Mosaic crochet pattern, suitable for beginners. As such, it is worked in the front of your piece, from right to left and yarn is attached at the beginning of the row and fastened off at the end.
For the front panel:
The techniques are the same across the pattern so it is easier to read the chart below. Here are instructions for the first few rows to get you started:
To start off, use Colour A yarn to chain (CH) 82.
Row 1: single crochet (SC) into the second CH from hook and continue making SCs across the chain. CH 1 and snip off the yarn.
Row 2: attach Colour B by placing a CH 1 in the first stitch and then SC into the first stitch. Continue placing SCs in the back loop (BL) of the stitches only. Place a normal SC into the last stitch. In this pattern, unless stated otherwise, the first and last stitches will be normal SCs, going through both loops of the stitch.
Row 3: this is where the mosaic crochet pattern starts.
Using Colour A, make 1 SC in the first stitch.
Then place a double crochet (DC) in the next 14 stitches. You will place the DCs in the front loop of the previous Colour A row. This is why we worked in the back loop of the SCs and any time you are asked to do a DC in the front loop it will be in the previous row of the same colour yarn. Unless otherwise specified, DCs in the front loop are made in the previous row of the same colour yarn.
Make 9 SCs in the back loop only.
Make 15 DCs in the front loop of the previous Colour A row.
Make 3 SCs in the back loop only.
Make 15 DCs in the front loop of the previous Colour A row.
Make 9 SCs in the back loop only.
Make 15 DCs in the front loop of the previous Colour A row.
Make 1 SC, CH 1 and fasten off.
Row 4: using Colour B SC in the first stitch and then:
SC in the back loop in the next 14 stitches.
Place 9 DCs in the front loop only.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop only.
Place 3 DCs in the front loop only.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop only.
Place 9 DCs in the front loop only.
SC in the back loop in the next 14 stitches.
Make one SC in the last stitch. CH 1 and fasten off.
Row 5: using Colour A, SC in the first stitch and then:
Make 1 SC in the back loop, and then 13 DCs in the front loop and 9 SCs in the back loop.
Make 13 DCs in the front loop.
Make 7 SCs in the back loop.
Make 13 DCs in the front loop.
Make 9 SCs in the back loop
Make 13 DCs in the front loop.
Make 1 SC in the last stitch, CH 1 and fasten off.
Row 6: using Colour B, SC in the first stitch and then:
Make 1 DC in the front loop.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop.
Make 5 DCs in the front loop.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop.
Make 3 DCs in the front loop, 1 SC in the back loop and 3 DCs in the front loop.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop.
Make 5 DCs in the front loop.
Make 15 SCs in the back loop.
Make 1 DC in the front loop.
Make 1 SC in the last stitch, CH 1 and fasten off.
…
For the back panel:
On the last row of the front panel, CH 1 but do not fasten off your Colour A yarn. We will use this yarn to make the first part of the back panel. This will be made up in the following way:
Make 3 rows of SCs, make sure to CH 1 at the end of each row. Then make 3 rows of DCs, again making sure to CH 1 at the end of each row.
Repeat this one more time. Make 4 rows of SCs.
Then, make one row of slip stitches. CH 1 and fasten off.
For the second longer piece of the back panel, either pick up the stitches of the first row of the front panel or CH 82 to create a separate panel. By picking up the stitches, you will not need to weave in the front and back panel together.
To make the second piece, you will use Colour A yarn to:
Make 3 rows of SCs, make sure to CH 1 at the end of each row. Then make 3 rows of DCs, again making sure to CH 1 at the end of each row.
Repeat this for a total of 7 times.
Make 1 row of SCs. CH1 and turn.
Make 21 SCs, skip 3 stitches and CH 3. This is how we start creating the buttonholes. Make another 15 SCs, skip 3 stitches and CH 3. Make another 15 SCs, skip 3 stitches and CH 3 and then SC 21, CH 1 and turn.
Make another row of SC, placing 3 SCs in the CH3 spaces. You should have 81 stitches in total.
Then make another 2 rows of SCs but finish by making one row of slip stitches. CH 1 and fasten off.
Veracruz crochet cushion pattern diagram:
Here is the pattern diagram. The x’s represent DCs worked in the front loop, the cells in green are normal SCs and empty cells represent SCs worked in the back loop.
The cells marked in blue are there to give you an impression of the design, not to mark colour changes. The columns in orange indicate if the row should be worked in Colour A or B.
Assembling the cushion:
Place the wrong sides together, ensuring that the longer back piece with the buttonholes is on the bottom. Using your darning needle and some colour A yarn, weave in the sides and remaining back panel piece if you made this separately. You don’t need to weave in the ends of the front panel as those will be on the inside of your cushion cover.
Check where the buttonholes are and secure the buttons using some yarn or thread. Place the cushion insert inside and your Veracruz Mosaic Crochet Cushion is ready!
Don’t forget to check out other crochet cushion patterns, like my Anthropologie inspired crochet cushion, the Pomegranate Love Cushion.
If you love texture, you will love this crochet ruffles stitch pattern. It creates a wonderful set of overlapping ruffles for a fun and super squishy look.
I recommend using a thicker yarn; for comparison, for these two swatches below I used a medium worsted weight yarn (on the right, Lion Brand Wool Ease in Grey Heather) and a DK yarn (on the left, Paintbox Acrylic DK in Peach Orange). The thicker yarn will give your piece more volume and it will look more fluffy.
This crochet pattern is perfect for adding some novelty to your work. I highly recommend it especially for home décor projects and statement outfits!
Crochet stitches used for the ruffles pattern:
To make the ruffle crochet pattern, you will need to know how to make the following stitches:
the half double crochet stitch,
the double crochet stitch and
the slip stitch
You can check out my step-by-step tutorials for these three stitches here:
How to crochet the ruffle pattern:
The pattern repeat is 5+1 chains. For this swatch, I made a total of 21 chains but you can chain (CH) as many as you need for your project, making sure they are in multiples of 5 plus 1.
Row 1: Place one half-double crochet (HDC) in the second chain from hook. Make a half-double crochet stitch along the rest of your chains. If you made a 21 CH swatch, you should have 20 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: Place HDCs along your work. You should have the same amount of stitches as on Row 1. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: *Place one HDC in each of the first 5 stitches.
Then CH 10. Place 2 double crochets (DC) in the 4th CH from hook.
Place 3 DCs in each of the remaining 6 CHs. This will create your ruffle.
Slip stitch (SLST) into the last HDC you worked on.
Now continue working on your main piece. Repeat from * until you have 5 stitches left. Make 5 HDCs, CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: Place HDCs along your work making sure that your ruffles are facing the side opposite you. You should have the same number of stitches as before. CH 1 and turn.
Row 5: Place one HDC in each of the first 3 stitches. *Then CH 10. Place 2 double crochets (DC) in the 4th CH from hook. Place 3 DCs in each of the remaining 6 CHs. This will create your ruffle. Slip stitch (SLST) into the last HDC you worked on. Now continue working on your main piece Place one HDC in the next five stitches. Repeat from * until you have 2 stitches left. Make 2 HDCs, CH 1 and turn.
To continue, repeat Rows 2-5 until you have reached your desired length.
I am almost always looking for new cushions and a red and white one from Anthropologie caught my eye instantly. Inevitably, when I went back weeks later, I could no longer find it (see photo on the left below)! Luckily, I had taken a screenshot of how it looked so I decided to adapt it and make a crochet version. And I am so happy I did! So here is my Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion Pattern (see photo on the right below)!
If you want to make the same cushion, follow the steps outlined below. I picked slightly different colours, substituting the white for a light caramel colour but you can use any colours you like. I love this colour combo, it is very unique and the whole design reminds me of pomegranate fruit: the red edible seeds and the light pink flesh which surrounds them. Plus it fits perfectly in our new loveseat *and* pomegranate was the fruit of love according to ancient Greeks. So the name Pomegranate Love seemed to fit this pattern like a glove!
In the end I also did a mini version in shades of blue, adapting the pattern for a smaller size cushion. So feel free to pick your preferred colours and let’s crochet!
The Pomegranate Love Cochet Cushion Pattern is worked in the round so there is very little sewing involved! You can also use buttons to allow for the cushion cover to come off if you prefer or simply sew the cushion cover top and bottom with the cushion insert. I have listed some tips and tricks to help you through colour changing and to minimise the amount of ends you will need to weave in, so be sure to check the end of this post and read those.
Rectangular cushion insert measuring approximately 33 x 17 inches
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
The following stitches are used in this pattern:
the single crochet stitch,
the popcorn stitch and
the slip stitch.
Check out the tutorials below for a step by step guide:
Here is the video tutorial for the Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion:
Row by row instructions for making the Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion:
Using Colour B (Red Wine), chain (CH) 108. The first 57 CH will make up the front of your cushion, The next 50 will form the back of your cushion and the last CH is your turning chain which does not count towards your stitch count.
Round 1: Place 1 single crochet (SC) in the 2nd stitch from hook. SC across the rest of the CHs. You should have 107 stitches. Place a stitch marker on the 57th stitch to mark the front panel of your cushion. Making sure that your piece is straight, without any twists, slip stitch (SL ST) to the first SC.
Round 2: CH 1 and SC in the same stitch. Place a stitch-marker in the first stitch. Make a popcorn stitch in the next stitch. To make a popcorn (POP) stitch, make 4 double crochet stitches in the same stitch. Remove your hook from the loop and place it through the top of the first double crochet. Place your hook through the loop of the fourth double crochet and pull through the double crochet. CH 1. This is your POP stitch. Place 1 SC in the next stitch. Continue by placing 1 POP and 1 SC across the front panel of your cushion. You should have 28 POP stitches. Place 1 SC in the 57th stitch, where you had previously placed your stitch-marker. Place the stitch-marker on the same stitch, once you have placed your SC. Continue by placing SCs in the back loop (BL) of the next 50 stitches. Once you’ve reached the end of the round, SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 3: CH 1 and SC across the first 57 stitches (i.e. your front panel). Then, place SCs in the BL only of the next 50 stitches. Once you’ve reached the end of the round, SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 4: CH 3 and then place another 3 double crochets in the same stitch. Finish the stitch like a POP stitch but go through the top of the CH 3 rather than the first double crochet. Place 1 SC in the next stitch. Continue by repeating 1 POP and 1 SC until the 56th stitch. Place 1 POP in the 57th stitch replacing the stitch-marker. You should have 29 POPs. Finish the row by placing SCs in the back loop only. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 5: Repeat round 3.
Round 6: Repeat round 2
Round 7: Repeat round 3
Round 8: Repeat round 4
Round 9: Repeat round 3
Round 10: Repeat round 2.
Round 11: Repeat round 3. CH 1 and snip off Colour B yarn.
Round 12:Make a slip knot with Colour A (Light caramel). Put your hook through the first stitch, CH 1 and make 1 SC in the same stitch. Continue by repeating round 4.
Round 13: Repeat round 3.
Round 14: Repeat round 2.
Round 15: Repeat round 3.
Round 16: Repeat round 4.
Round 17: Repeat round 3.
Round 18: Repeat round 2.
Round 19: Repeat round 3.
Round 20: Repeat round 4.
Round 21: Repeat round 3. At the end of the row, drop but do not snip off the Colour A yarn. Attach Colour B, by yarning it over on your hook and pulling through the Colour A loop. Tighten the Colour A loop so it is almost level with your work.
Round 22: Using Colour B, CH 1 and 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch. SC 17. Complete the last SC using your Colour A. To do that, simply take a separate skein of yarn in Colour A, and use that to pull through the two loops in the last step in making your SC. Check out the video tutorial for this pattern if you are having trouble switching colours. You will need to switch colours several times in this pattern, so please be aware to complete the stitches before the colour change with your new colour. While carrying Colour B on the back of your piece, repeat the following stitches 1 POP and 1 SC for a total of 10 times, with your main colour. Make one further POP stitch but complete it by using Colour B to make the final CH 1. Drop Colour A and continue with Colour B by placing 18 SCs. For the final 50 stitches, place SCs in the BL only. SL ST into the first stitch. Drop Colour B and pick up Colour A for the next round.
Round 23: CH 1 and 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch. Place 17 SCs in the BL only, then SC for the next 11 stitches a standard SC. When crocheting the 11 SCs, try to bring to the start the yarn from the skein that you crocheted the POPs in the previous row. This way it will be ready to pick up at the right place on your next row. Finish the row by placing SCs in the BL only. SL ST to the first stitch. Essentially, you are placing SCs in the back loop only unless you are crocheting in the spaces where we previously created the design using the POP stitches.
Round 24: Using Colour B, CH 1 and SC 1 in the BL of the same stitch. Change colours before completing the SC. Make 1 POP with Colour A, but complete it with Colour B. SC 18 in the BL completing the last one with Colour A. Carry Colour B in the back of your work for the next few stitches so you are ready to pick it up later. Make 1 PO and 1 SC; repeat this for a total of 8 times. Make one POP and complete it using Colour B. Continue by placing 18 SCs in the BL. Complete the 18th SC using Colour A (again connecting a new skein as before). Make 1 POP but complete the CH 1 using Colour B. SC in the BL using Colour B for the rest of the row. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 25: Pick up Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL across all stitches except for where you have POP stitches, like on round 23. SL ST to the first stitch and drop this colour and pick up the Colour B.
Round 26: With Colour B (and carrying Colour A), CH 1 and SC in the BL of the first stitch. Complete the stich with Colour A. Using Colour A, and now carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP. Complete the last POP using Colour B. Continue with Colour B only and make 18 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A, picking it up from the previous row. While carrying your Colour B, make 1 POP and 1 SC and repeat this 6 times with Colour A. Make one more POP completing it with Colour B. Place 18 SCs in the BL only using Colour B, complete the last SC with Colour A and then while carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP in Colour A. Complete the last POP with Colour B. Continue with Colour B, placing SCs in the BL across the rest of your piece. SL ST to your first stich.
Round 27: Using Colour A, place SCs in the same way as previous odd numbered rounds (25 and 23) making sure to carry forward the yarn from the additional two skeins of Colour A.
Round 28: Picking up Colour B, CH 1 place 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch, then make 1 POP and 1 SC; complete the SC using Colour A (carry that from the start of the round). Using Colour A, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP again completing the last stich with Colour B which you will have carried through. Then make 18 SCs in the BL completing the last one by picking up Colour A from the round below. While carrying Colour B, make the following stitches with Colour A: 1 POP and 1 SC, repeat 4 times. Make 1 more POP completing with Colour B. Make 18 SCs in the BL using Colour B. Complete the last stich with Colour A and while carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP. Complete the last POP with Colour B and then make 1 SC, 1 POP and then SC in the BL until the end of the round with Colour B. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 29: CH 1 with the Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds 27, 25 etc.
Round 30: Using Colour B (carry Colour A), CH 1 and SC in the BL of the same stitch. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC; complete the last SC using Colour A. With Colour A (carry Colour B), make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP. Complete the last POP using Colour B, then SC in the BL of the next 18 stitches. Complete the last SC, using Colour A. Then make 1 POP and 1 SC, repeat for a total of 2 times, then make 1 POP and complete it using Colour B which you have carried. Using Colour B, pace 18 SCs in the BL. Complete the last SC using Colour A, then make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP completing it using Colour B which you will have carried. With Colour B, make 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then place SCs in the BL across the rest of the round. S ST to the first stitch.
Round 31: CH 1 with Colour A and SC in the BL as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 32: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and in the same stitch SC in the BL using Colour B. Then make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC completing it using Colour A. With Colour A (carry Colour B), make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP completing it with Colour B. Make SC in the BL only in the next 18 stitches, completing the last one using Colour A from the round below. Make 1 POP and compete it using Colour B. You can now snip off the extra Colour A skein and set it aside. Continue by placing 18 SCs in the BL only completing the last one using Colour A from the round below. With Colour A, carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it using Colour B. Then make 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP using Colour B. Continue by making SCs in the BL until the end of the row. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 33: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 34: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 2 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with the Colour B. Then make 33 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 35: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 36: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL only in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 4 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 29 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 37: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 38: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL only in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 6 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour Ar. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 25 SCs in the BL. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 39: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 40: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 8 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 21 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 41: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 42: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 10 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with the Colour B. Then make 17 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A nd make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 43: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Rounds 44 – 62: repeat rounds 40 – 22 in reverse, i.e. round 44 is identical to round 40, 46 to 38 etc. The odd numbered rounds as crocheted as before.
Round 63: crochet like previous odd numbered rounds as before using the main colour.
From now onwards, you will continue by placing SCs in the BL and alternating between Colours A and B.
Round 64: Using Colour B, CH 1 and in the same stich and across all the other stitches place SC in the BL. SL ST in the first stitch.
Round 65: Using Colour A. CH 1 and in the same stich and across all the other stitches place SC in the BL. SL ST in the first stitch.
Rounds 66-104: Repeat rounds 64 and 65.
Finishing up and assembling the Pomegranate Love cushion:
If you are happy for the cushion cover to remain in place on your cushion, you can simply snip off your yarn, CH 1 and weave in your ends. You will then need to either SL ST with your crochet hook or use a darning needle and yarn and close the top and bottom openings. Just make sure you have fitted your cushion insert before stitching closed the second opening.
If you want to have your cushion cover close and open with buttons, follow the next additional steps.
Round 105: With Colour A, CH 1 and SL ST in the same stitch. SL ST for one more stitch. Then for the next 54 stitches places SCs in the BL. SL ST for the rest of the round. For ease, you may wish to transfer your stitch markers to the first and last of the 54 stitches, as you will only be crocheting in those for the remainder of the pattern.
Rounds 106 – 114: Still alternating colours as before, SC in the BL across the 54 stitches but place a normal SC at the first and last stitch. You will have to crochet on the right side only, similar to mosaic crochet. This means connecting and snipping off your yarn at the beginning and end of each row. Make sure you hide your ends as you crochet the rows. Also make sure to CH 1 at the end of each row to secure your work.
Round 115: Using Colour A, CH 1 and make 1 SC in the same stitch, 6 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, 2 CH and skip 2 stitches. The skipped stitches are your button holes. Then make 1 SC, 8 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, 2 CH and skip 2 stitches. Repeat another two times. Finish off by making 1 SC, 6 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, and CH 1 and snip off your yarn..
Round 116: repeat as in rounds 106-114 placing 2 SCs in the skipped stitches.
Rounds 117 – 118: repeat as on rounds 106-114.
Round 119: SL ST across all stitches, CH 1 and snip off your yarn.
To finish off your cushion, close the other side by stitching the sides together with a darning needle (or use a hook to SL ST across). Sew in your buttons at the right place to ensure a snug fit. It is a good idea to place the cushion in to make sure you place the buttons in the right place.
Tips and Tricks:
Carrying the yarn: make sure to carry your yarn by placing it in the back of your piece. You should do that in even numbered rows, to make sure the secondary yarn travels across the round. You should also do it on odd numbered rows to make sure that the yarn from the other skeins attached travels to the right place to be picked up in the next round. Make sure that the tension of the carried yarn is not too loose so that the carried yarn does not show through your piece. The video tutorial explains this in more detail if you need to check that out.
2. Using stitch markers: it will help you keep track of your stitches and to distinguish between your front and back panels, especially if you are more of a beginner. Remember to replace them on every row on your 1st and 57th stitch to mark the beginning and end of your front panel.
Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion Pattern Diagram:
The diagram reflects the front panel design. Red squares represent Colour B; the white squares Colour A. Empty cells represent SCs (both standard and in the back loop only) and X’s represent POP stitches. The back panel is not represented nor is the CH 1 at the beginning of each round. The second half of the front panel is not represented as this is a series of rows in alternate colours.
Mini version (30x50cm or 12×20 inches)
The diagram depicts the front panel only. For the back panel you will need 38 stitches. The pattern is worked up in the same way as the larger version. For this version, I used Paintbox cotton DK yarn. I would recommend buying 2 50g skeins from each of the colours you want to use.
If you have been following along, in this series of blogs I am sharing how to make my Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket. This crochet blanket features four different crochet squares, each featuring a different geometric design. In case you missed the earlier blogs, check those here:
In this final blog post, I will talk about the final measurements of my blanket, how much yarn I used and how many squares I crocheted, and how I joined the squares and created a border for the blanket.
Check out the video tutorial here – use the timestamps provided to skip to different parts of the tutorial:
How many crochet squares will you need?
This totally depends on how big a blanket you want to make. For my blanket, I crocheted 12 squares of each design. So a total of 48 squares! With the border, my blanket measured 50 inches wide by 69 inches long. As mentioned in previous posts, each square measures 8×8 inches so that is a helpful guide when you are planning your blanket. You can customise your blanket and use fewer designs/squares or use all four but vary how many of each you make.
Before you start joining the crochet squares, I would recommend that you block them – but you can also block your final project as a whole. As I have used acrylic yarn, I placed my blanket on my bed on top of a bedsheet and used a spray bottle to dampen it. I made sure it was the right size and shape. Then I covered it with a clean towel and pressed it for a few seconds with the iron.
This step is not absolutely essential. Your blanket will still look lovely even if you don’t block the squares but it is one little thing you can do to give your blanket an extra good finish.
Preparing for joining the crochet squares
You can join the crochet squares in whichever way you want! However, if you want to achieve the same look as me then you will need to first crochet a border with some white yarn around each square. I used Paintbox Acrylic DK in Paper White (100).
With the right side facing up, make a slip knot and put your hook through any of stitches of your square. Yarn over and slip stitch. Make an SC in the same stitch and then place a single crochet across each stitch and row. Once you have gone round the square, slip stitch to the first stitch, chain one and fasten off your yarn.
The Hexagon Bobble and the Diamond Treble Squares are all made up of 35 rows. But the Berry Square is made up for 33 rows and the Puff Triangle has 37 rows. So for the Berry Square, add 2 extra SCs on each of the sides when you are working on the SCs. For the Triangle Puff, skip 2 rows on each of the sides (I chose to do that at the top and bottom of each side). This will mean that you will have 31 SCs on two of the sides and 35 SCs on the other two across all of your squares.
If you are not familiar with the SC stitch, check out my step by step video tutorial here:
Once you have crocheted the border around all the squares, place them in a pattern that suits you. I placed them in the following way (B = square berry , T = triangle puff, D = diamond treble, H = hexagon bobble):
Making the slip stitch join
I used the slip stitch join to connect the squares first vertically (columns) and then horizontally (rows).
To make the slip stitch join:
Start by crocheting together the columns of your blanket. Start by taking two squares and place them on a flat surface facing up. Use stitch markers to keep your work straight.
Make slipknot and put through your hook. Position your yarn underneath the two squares.
Find the first stitch of that side of your square. Place your hook through the front loop of the crochet square to your right.
Then place your hook through the back loop of the other crochet square, making sure you are on the first stitch of that side.
If you have difficulty in identifying the front and the back loop, the font loop is the one facing up and the back look is facing your flat surface when you have your squares laid out. See also the photo below.
Pick up your yarn and yarn over. Pull through all the loops.
You should repeat this across all the stitches of your crochet square side.
Once you are done with the first pair of squares, continue joining the next pair in the same way.
Once your are done with the whole column, CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.
Once you have crocheted all your columns, you can start working on your rows in the same way. When you reach the vertical joins, after you have completed the slip stitch join in the last pair of squares, skip the column join and find the closest to you crochet stitches on the other two squares which have been previously joined – they are easy to spit as they will look slightly elongated. Pick up the front loops on both of these stitches and slip stitch through them. Continue by picking up the font and back loops as before.
How to make the blanket border?
I crochet the border in ‘rows’ by slipstitching in the end to the first stitch and then turning the blanket and continuing to crochet. You can also make the border by crocheting in the round, however, the look and thickness of your border will be different. See photo below.
To make your blanket border:
Turn your blanket so that the wrong side is facing you as you crochet. Make a slipknot and put through your hook.
Choose a point in your blanket, it does not matter where, and put the hook through the stitch. Yarn over and make a slipstitch. Make an SC in the same stitch. Place a stitch marker to more easily spot which your first stitch is.
Place 1 SC in each of the stitches along your blanket.
When you reach the edge of each square place 2 SCs in the last stitch before the join. Then, for the join between two squares, place two SCs in the last ‘braid’ or ‘V’ shape stitch connecting the two squares on the front part of your blanket. Then, place another 2 SCs in the first stitch of the square after your join. You will need to make two decreases on the next row, so feel free to place a stitch marker on the second SC of your first square, and the second SC placed on the join stitch.
For the corners, place 3 SCs on a corner stitch, you can mark the middle stitch with a stitch marker.
Continue placing SCs across the edge of your blanket. When you have made your last SC, slipstitch into your first SC and CH 1.
For the second row of your border, turn your piece around and SC along the blanket. When you reach the edge of each square, where you previously placed two SCs, place 1 SC in one and then SC two together two times. If you placed stitch markers, this will help you identify the relevant stitches. To make one decrease, place your hook through your stitch, yarn over and pull through. Then, place your hook through the next stitch, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. Continue by placing 1 SC in each stitch and placing 3 SCs in the corners.
For the next two rows, simply SC across all stitches but continue making the increases on the corners.
Finish by slipstitching into the first stitch and CH 1. Do not fasten off your yarn, you still need it to make the crab stitch edge!
How to make the crab stitch edge?
Now make one more row with the crab stitch to finish off your blanket. The crab stitch is a reverse SC. To make the crab stitch:
Take your hook and place it in the previous stitch. If you hold your loop onto your hook with your index easier it will make this easier.
Put your hook through the stitch and yarn over.
Pull through, yarn over and pull though all loops.
Try to keep your tension even and not too tight as this help make the border look good. When you have placed one crab stitch or reverse SC into all stitches, slipstitch to the first stitch.
How much yarn will I need?
This will depend on your preferred size, but for my blanket I used the following approximate amount of Paintbox DK Acrylic yarn:
We are finally on to the fourth and last square for this crochet blanket. The Hexagon Bobble Square is very beginner-friendly. It features the single crochet and bobble stitches. As I explain below, the bobble stitch is slightly adapted so that its texture matches that of the other squares in this blanket.
In case you missed the previous three squares, here are the links:
The Geometric Squares blanket is made up of four crochet squares each featuring a different geometric shape created with a different stitch. The stitches selected give your piece texture so the final look is gorgeous. The blanket itself can be adapted in many different ways: you can use only one, or two crochet squares, make them all in one colour or choose different colour combinations (gradient, rainbow etc) and you can also adapt the size of your blanket as well as how the squares are joined and the kind of blanket border you want.
In the next blog post of this series I will post about how many blanket squares you will need, how to crochet them together and add a border to your blanket. If you would like to receive an update when this new blog post it out, you can subscribe to my blog to get notified by email any time I post.
Let’s get started with our Hexagon Bobble Square! If you try out this pattern, I would love to hear from you.
For the Hexagon Bobble Square you will need:
4.00 mm crochet hook
DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Melon Sorbet (116) and Bubblegum Pink (150). You can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you may end of up with a differently sized crochet square
Tapestry needle to weave in your ends (I have previously bought those on amazon)
Pair of scissors
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
This pattern uses two very simple stitches: the single crochet stitch and the bobble stitch. You will find video tutorials for both directly below. Just remember that for the purposes of this pattern we have adapted the bobble stitch as explained below.
Remember to stop adding half completed double crochets when you have four loops on your hook, rather than six as described in the video tutorial. This is to ensure the texture of the bobble stitch matches that of the other squares in this pattern. Because the bobble stitch has a very strong stitch definition, we need to tweak it a bit to fit in with the more discreet-looking berry, puff and treble stitches.
Check out the video tutorial
Row by row instructions to make the Hexagon Bobble Square:
Chain (CH) 32.
Row 1: Place a single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. Continue along the chains by placing one SC in each space. You should have a total of 31 SCs at the end of your first row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: Place 1 SC in the first 3 stitches. Then, *make a bobble stitch (BO). Remember you are making an adapted BO stitch. This is made by yarning over (YO), placing your hook in the stitch. YO and pulling through, YO again and pulling through the first two loops only. Repeat this 3 times – you should have 4 loops on your hook. Then YO and pull through all the loops.
After that, place 1 SC, 1 BO and 8 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. Then place 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: 2 SCs, *1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 6 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. To finish your row, place 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn,
Row 5: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 6: 1 SC, * 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. Finish off your row by placing 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 7: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 8: repeat row 4.
Row 9: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: repeat row 2.
Rows 11-13: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 14-25: repeat rows 2-13.
Rows 26-35: repeat rows 2-11. On row 35, finish off with a CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.
Pattern diagram
If you prefer following a pattern schematic, here is one for the Hexagon Bobble Square. Empty cells represent a single crochet and cells marked with an ‘X’ represent the adapted bobble crochet stitches. Remember to CH 1 at the end of each row, this is your turning chain and does not count towards your stitches.
I love combining the treble crochet stitch with the single crochet! Instant texture, with practically no effort. And combining those stitches to create a diamond or rhombus is the perfect shape for this stitch.
The Diamond Treble Square is the third pattern featured in the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket. The blanket is made up of four different designs and in case you missed previous posts about it, part 1 of the series featured the Triangle Puff Square and part 2 was the Square Berry Square.
Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. However, all four pattern designs can be easily adapted. You can use different colours or make the square bigger or smaller. You can also use the designs to make lots of other things like a hot pad, dishcloth, scarf, shawl or garment. The options are endless!
Now on to making the Diamond Treble Square! You will find the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial. I am using US terminology only for this pattern.
Diamond Treble Square crochet pattern video tutorial:
For the Diamond Treble Square, you will need:
4.00 mm crochet hook
DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Raspberry Pink (143) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
Tapestry needle to weave in your ends
Pair of scissors
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
The Diamond Treble Square pattern uses two beginner-friendly stitches: the single crochet stitch and the treble stitch. You can watch detailed video stitch tutorials here:
Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC across the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: SC in the first 3 stitches. *Make one treble stitch (TR). SC in the next 11 stitches. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 9 SCs. Repeat from * for another one time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 5: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 6: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 7: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 8: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 9: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 11: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 12: *7 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR. Repeat from * one more time. 7 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
Row 13: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 14: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 3 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
Row 15: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 16: 2 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 17: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 18: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 19: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 20-29: repeat rows 8-17.
Row 30: repeat row 18.
Row 31: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 32: Repeat row 4.
Row 33: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 34: Repeat row 2.
Row 35: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
If you prefer to follow a pattern schematic, here is one for the Diamond Treble Square. Empty cells represent a single crochet and cells marked with an ‘X’ represent treble crochet stitches. Remember to CH 1 at the end of each row, this is your turning chain and does not count towards your stitches.
The Square Berry Square is a bit of a tongue twister but it is a super fun and easy pattern. As the name suggests, this crochet pattern uses the berry stitch to create a series of squares. This is the second pattern that will make up our Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket which is made up of four different designs in total, all featuring a geometric shape made with a different stitch. In case you missed it, part 1 of the series featured the Triangle Puff Square.
As mentioned in previous posts, in this series of blog posts I will share the four designs featured in this blanket and I will also go over how you can assemble the blanket squares and crochet a border and other details in terms of materials etc.
Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. However, the Square Berry pattern can be easily adapted. You can use different colours or make the square bigger or smaller. You can also make a blanket or other item, like a scarf, shawl or garment just using this pattern. The blanket too is also super versatile as you can again adapt it to your preferred colour palette, pick a specific design that you may want to use more than another and you can also adapt the blanket size to fit your needs. You can also change the way that the crochet squares are joined up to give your blanket a different style. So the combinations are endless!
Now, let’s start working on our Square Berry Square! You will find the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial. I am using US terminology only for this pattern:
For the Square Berry Square, you will need:
4.00 mm crochet hook
DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Vintage Pink (155) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
Tapestry needle to weave in your ends (I have previously purchased these on Amazon)
Pair of scissors
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
The Square Berry Square pattern uses two beginner-friendly stitches: the single crochet stitch and the berry stitch. If you would like to watch a tutorial about the single crochet, check out this video tutorial.
The berry stitch is explained in detail in the Square Berry Square video tutorial. But here are some written instructions to help you out, alongside the video.
The Berry Stitch is similar to the Bobble Stitch but creates a more subtle effect. To make it, you will do the following in the designated stitch:
Yarn over, put your hook through the stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook.
Yarn over and pull through the first loop only.
Then yarn over again and put your hook through the same stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You should have 5 loops on your hook.
Yarn over and pull through all the loops.
Berry stitches are normally placed in-between single crochets – and this is what we will also do for the Square Berry Square pattern.
One important tip: keep your tension even but not too tight. You want the berry stitch to have some ‘puff’. You can give your piece a gentle tug after you yarn over to help get a more even and consistent result.
To make the Square Berry Square:
Make a loop and chain (CH) 32.
Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC across the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 turn.
Row 2: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: This is where we start our pattern. You should place the following stiches: SC 1, *Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC in the next 7 SCs. Repeat from * for a total of 2 times. You should have 6 SCs left. Work them as follows: Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1 and SC 1. CH 1 and turn
Row 4: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 5-8: repeat rows 3 and 4.
With those rows finished, you should have your first set of squares. In the following rows, we will start crocheting the next set of squares placing them in the space between the ones we have just crocheted.
Row 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1. Repeat from * for a total of 2 times. SC in the last 7 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 11-14: repeat rows 9 and 10.
Rows 3-14 represent the pattern repeat. To reach the correct length for your square you need to repeat those rows one more time. So this means:
Rows 15- 26: repeat rows 3-14.
Rows 27-32: repeat rows 3-8.
Row 33: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.
Weave in your ends. Your Square Berry Square is ready!
Here is also a diagram for those who are more visual crocheters:
Please note that empty cells represent single crochet stitches and ‘x”s stand for berry stitches. Each row finishes with a turning chain that is not represented in the diagram and does not count towards your stitch count.
Geometric shapes and designs are my absolute favourite! I designed this Geometric Square Crochet Blanket so that it features different shapes. The blanket features four designs: triangles, hexagons, squares and rhombuses. Each design features a combination of the single crochet stitch and one of the following stitches: the puff, bobble, treble and berry stitches! Using these stitches gives the blanket a similar ‘bobbly’ texture which helps bring the designs together.
The pattern can be easily adapted as you can use your own colour preferences, pick and choose if you want to use a specific design more than another and you can also adapt the blanket size to fit your needs. You can also change the way that the crochet squares are joined up to give your blanket a different style. So the combinations are endless!
In this blog post, I will walk you through the first crochet blanket square featuring the Triangle Puff square. In subsequent blog posts I will share the other three designs and in a separate blog post I will go over how you can assemble the blanket squares and crochet a border as well as how many squares I needed of each design and the colours I used. Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. Check out part 2 of this blog series, featuring the Square Berry Square.
Check out the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial:
For the Triangle puff square you will need:
4.00 mm crochet hook
DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Dusty Rose (141) and Peach Orange (154) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
Tapestry needle to weave in your ends
Pair of scissors
To make the Triangle puff square:
Make a loop and chain (CH) 32.
Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. Place a SC in each of the CH. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn your piece.
Row 2: SC in the first stitch. Then make a puff stitch. To make the puff stitch: *yarn over, put your hook through the loop, yarn over and pull through. You should have 3 loops on your hook. Repeat from * for a total of 4 times. You should then have a total of 9 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull your hook through all the loops.
Once you have completed your puff stitch, make as SC in the next stitch. For the rest of the row follow the following instructions: 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch and 1 SC. You should have a total of 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: 2 SCs, * 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 2 SCs, You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 5: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 6: 3 SCs, *1 puff stitch, 11 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 puff stitch, 3 SCs, You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 7: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 8: *7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch. Repeat from * one more time. SC 7. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 9: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: 8 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 8 SCs. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 11: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 12: 9 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 11 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.
Row 13: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 14 – 37: repeat rows 2-13.
Fasten off your yarn and weave in your ends.
Here is a diagram in case you prefer following a visual pattern:
The empty cells represent single crochet stitches and the ‘x’s are puff stitches. Note that each row finishes with a chain 1. This is a turning chain and does not count towards your stitch count.
Tips for making the puff stitch:
Each time you pull your hook through the stitch, give this a little tug to make sure no extra yarn has been caught. this will give your final stitch a good look.
Make sure that when you yarn over, that you keep your tension even but not too tight. This will help you when pulling your hook through all the loops.
Happy Crochet
Click here for Part 2 of the blanket, feature the Square Berry Square.
