Very excited to be introducing my first crochet pattern e-book for Christmas! ”Ten Mini Christmas Crochet Baubles” features a series of ornaments perfect for the festive season!
‘Tis the season to be jolly, and what better way to spread festive cheer than with some crochet! You will have seen some of these patterns featured on this blog but the ebook brings them and some new ones all together!
Here is a sneak peek into the ebook
What to expect from the ebook
The book contains 10 easy and cute patterns for crocheting mini baubles that you can hang on your tree or banister, use as gift tags, or display any way you like. You will find patterns featuring holiday treats, ornaments, and animals. Each bauble measures around 2 x 2 inches. They can be made as quickly as one hour and will add lots of festive fun to your home decorations. Together the mini baubles make a wonderful set of ornaments to gift to someone you love or to create cherished heirlooms for your own home.
Browse through the image carousel below for a look through the Christmas baubles featured in the ebook.
Ten Mini Christmas Crochet Baubles – Patterns for the Festive Season includes a full list of materials and tips and tricks. Made using a few basic crochet stitches, the patterns are written using US terminology and come with clear step-by-step instructions, photos, and links to video tutorials to help you create your own mini Christmas masterpieces.
Get your copy of ‘Ten Mini Christmas Crochet Baubles’ on all Amazon stores!
It is free on Kindle Unlimited. Here are some direct links:
Are you ready for a royal celebration? In 2022, Queen Elizabeth II is celebrating 70 years as Monarch, the first ever in the UK to celebrate this milestone. She is already the longest reigning Monarch in British history and has been served by 14 UK Prime Ministers during her reign – her first Prime Minister was Winston Churchill. Since becoming Queen, there have been 14 Presidents of the United States, and, with the exception of President Johnson (1963-9), she has met each one. What an amazing life she has led!
To mark the occasion, many crafters across the UK and beyond have been making some amazing creations! My own modest contribution is a royal crown crochet bunting, featuring a crochet applique crown in two sizes made in three different colours. I chose to make the crowns in purple, golden yellow and white to reflect the royal family colours. Purple, in particular, is the main colour of the Queen’s Jubilee emblem. You can change up the colours – and of course you can use the same pattern for other occasions like a little girl’s party.
Check out the pattern instructions below and the full video tutorial. The pattern is written in US terminology. The large crown measures 3 inches / 7.5 cm tall and 2.75 inches / 7 cm at its widest point. The smaller one is approx. 2.5 inches /6 cm tall and 2 inches/just over 5.5 cm wide.
To make the Jubilee Crochet Crown Bunting you will need:
Stitches used in the Crochet Crown Bunting pattern:
This is a beginner-friendly pattern so only four basic stitches are used: the single crochet, the half double crochet, the double crochet and the slip stitches. You can find detailed video tutorials for all of them directly below:
The Crochet Crown Bunting pattern:
Step 1: Use the 3.00mm crochet hook with the Scheepjes catona yarn and the 4.00mm hook with the Lion Brad cotton yarn.
Step 2: Chain (CH 10). Make 1 single crochet (SC) in the second loop from hook. Make a total of 9 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Step 3: Make 9 SCs and turn.
Step 4: Make 1 half double crochet (HDC), CH 1 and skip 1 stitch. Repeat a total of 4 times. Make 1 HDC. CH 1 and turn.
Step 5: Make 9 SCs and turn.
Step 6: Slip stitch into the first and second stitches. Make 1 SC and CH 3. Skip one stitch. Make 1 SC and CH 3. Skip one stitch. Then, make 1 SC and slip stitch into the last two.
Step 7: CH 7 and make 1 double crochet (DC) in the first CH 3 space. CH 6 and make 1 DC in the second CH 3 space. CH 7 and slip stitch into the last slip stitch.
Step 8: In the first CH 7 space make 8 SCs. In the CH 6 space make 4 HDCS, CH 3 and slip stitch into the second CH and then make another 4 HDCs. In the second CH 7 space make 8 SCs.
Step 9: Without turning your piece, slip stitch into the side of your piece, adding one slip stitch per row. Slip stitch across your original CH 9 and then up the other side of your piece. Slip stitch into the first SC of the CH 7 space. Snip off your yarn.
Step 10: Weave in your ends. Repeat to make as many crown appliques as you want. For my bunting I made 7 crochet crown appliques in Lion Brand Cotton 24/7 and 6 in goldenrod. Using my 3.00 crochet hook and the Scheepjes catona Snow White yarn, I made 12 crown appliques.
Step 11: On an ironing board, place your appliques so that you are happy with their shape. Using the steam setting on your iron, press each of the appliques for a few seconds. Only use this method if you are working with cotton yarns, as the direct heat will burn an acrylic or other synthetic yarn.
Step 12: Decide how closely you want your crowns placed. I decided to start and end the bunting with a purple crown. Start by making CH 10 (2inches/5cm). Pick up your first crown and slip stitch into the top of your piece. I then decided to leave approx. 5.5 inches between each crown. Continue by making CH 30 between each crown. When slip stitching the rest of the crowns, make sure they are facing the same way by keeping the CH straight, without any twists. Finish the bunting by making CH 10. Snip off your yarn and weave in your ends.
The Crochet Crown Bunting pattern video tutorial:
Let me know if you give this pattern a go. I would love to know if you liked it and see your creations.
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The wattle stitch is a great and super beginner-friendly stitch! It creates a lovely floral design with great structure which makes it an excellent choice for many projects from blankets and shawls to re-usable cotton pads and dishcloths. The even better news is that you only need to know the single and double crochet stitches to make it. And also it is a one row pattern repeat!
To make the wattle crochet stitch:
To start, chain (CH) a multiple of 3. Once you are happy with the length of your piece add another 3 CH.
Row 1: Put 1 single crochet (SC) in the second CH from hook. *Then place the following stitches in the next CH: 1 SC, CH 1 and 1 double crochet (DC). Skip the next 2 CH. Repeat from * until you have one CH left. Make 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: Make 1 SC in the fist stitch. Then place the following stitches in the CH 1 space created in row 1: 1 SC, CH 1 and 1 DC. Repeat this across your piece working in all the CH 1 spaces. Finish the row by placing 1 SC in the last stitch. CH 1 and turn.
Repeat row 2 until you are happy with the length of your project.
Check out the wattle stitch video tutorial:
The texture of the wattle stitch really stands out when you work it using a thicker yarn but a DK cotton yarn will also give you a very elegant result.
And if you are looking for a step by step tutorial on the single and the double crochet stitches, you can check out these two videos as well:
If you try the wattle stitch, leave me a comment below with how you liked it and how your project turned out.
Who doesn’t love a Christmas tree? And when it’s made of crochet, surely absolutely no one can say no! Rows of Christmas trees made using the tapestry crochet technique are offset to make a great pattern particularly for the festive season. Each Christmas tree is approximately 3cm tall and 3.3cm at its base, at its widest point.
This pattern is worked in the round. It is perfect for making an accessory bag or case, or a cushion or even a storage box. The full pattern repeat is provided below with all relevant sizes, so you can adapt the pattern to fit your project. In the photos below I have used the pattern to make a zipper pouch bag. To make one as well simply follow the steps outlined in this post here but use the Christmas tree pattern found directly below.
What you will need to make the Christmas tree tapestry crochet pattern:
To make this pattern I used:
Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn in two colours of your choice; for the pictured zipper bag I used Grass and White was used, 1 ball of each
3.5mm crochet hook
You can use another worsted weight yarn or choose a completely different one. If you choose a yarn with a different weight, the size of your trees and pattern will differ. So you may wish to make a swatch to confirm the size.
Stitches used in the Christmas tree tapestry crochet pattern:
Single crochet stitch
Modified single crochet
Slip stitch
This pattern uses US terminology. Check out the videos below for detailed stitch tutorials:
Christmas tree tapestry crochet pattern repeat:
The diagram below provides an overview of the pattern. The coloured boxes with an ‘x’ indicate the stitches where you will use your contrasting colour to create the Christmas tree shape. If you are making panels, like for the accessory bag pictured, the pattern repeat for this Christmas tree design is 28 + 11 + 1 chains (CH). You can multiply your pattern by 28 CH until you reach approximately your preferred length. You will then add CH 11 plus 1 which will be your turning CH.
So for example, for the zipper bag featured in the photos, the number of stitches on each side is (28 x 2) + 11 + 1 = 68 CH. The last CH is your turning CH. The front and back panel are identical. To allow you to adapt this pattern, the red square below measures approximately 11cm in width and 8cm in height. You can use those measurements to adapt your own design and project size.
If you are working on a project that is round and you need the pattern to be continuous, e.g. a circular storage box, then the pattern repeat should be 28+1. The last CH is your turning CH.
Make your first row with single crochet stitches; make the rest with the modified single crochet. I like to finish off my tapestry crochet pieces with a row of slip stitches.
To connect the panels or rounds, you can either 1 CH and slip stich or you can simply continue crocheting from your last stitch to your first. I prefer doing that as it gives a more seamless look. Use stitch markers to track where the first stitch is as well as to separate different panels or the sides of your piece, as explained in this detailed post about the Hearts Zipper Pouch.
I hope you like this festive pattern! Check out my Hearts tapestry crochet pattern here with more information and tips about working with tapestry crochet.
Comment below if you have any questions about this pattern and let me know if you give this a go!
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I am almost always looking for new cushions and a red and white one from Anthropologie caught my eye instantly. Inevitably, when I went back weeks later, I could no longer find it (see photo on the left below)! Luckily, I had taken a screenshot of how it looked so I decided to adapt it and make a crochet version. And I am so happy I did! So here is my Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion Pattern (see photo on the right below)!
If you want to make the same cushion, follow the steps outlined below. I picked slightly different colours, substituting the white for a light caramel colour but you can use any colours you like. I love this colour combo, it is very unique and the whole design reminds me of pomegranate fruit: the red edible seeds and the light pink flesh which surrounds them. Plus it fits perfectly in our new loveseat *and* pomegranate was the fruit of love according to ancient Greeks. So the name Pomegranate Love seemed to fit this pattern like a glove!
In the end I also did a mini version in shades of blue, adapting the pattern for a smaller size cushion. So feel free to pick your preferred colours and let’s crochet!
The Pomegranate Love Cochet Cushion Pattern is worked in the round so there is very little sewing involved! You can also use buttons to allow for the cushion cover to come off if you prefer or simply sew the cushion cover top and bottom with the cushion insert. I have listed some tips and tricks to help you through colour changing and to minimise the amount of ends you will need to weave in, so be sure to check the end of this post and read those.
Rectangular cushion insert measuring approximately 33 x 17 inches
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
The following stitches are used in this pattern:
the single crochet stitch,
the popcorn stitch and
the slip stitch.
Check out the tutorials below for a step by step guide:
Here is the video tutorial for the Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion:
Row by row instructions for making the Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion:
Using Colour B (Red Wine), chain (CH) 108. The first 57 CH will make up the front of your cushion, The next 50 will form the back of your cushion and the last CH is your turning chain which does not count towards your stitch count.
Round 1: Place 1 single crochet (SC) in the 2nd stitch from hook. SC across the rest of the CHs. You should have 107 stitches. Place a stitch marker on the 57th stitch to mark the front panel of your cushion. Making sure that your piece is straight, without any twists, slip stitch (SL ST) to the first SC.
Round 2: CH 1 and SC in the same stitch. Place a stitch-marker in the first stitch. Make a popcorn stitch in the next stitch. To make a popcorn (POP) stitch, make 4 double crochet stitches in the same stitch. Remove your hook from the loop and place it through the top of the first double crochet. Place your hook through the loop of the fourth double crochet and pull through the double crochet. CH 1. This is your POP stitch. Place 1 SC in the next stitch. Continue by placing 1 POP and 1 SC across the front panel of your cushion. You should have 28 POP stitches. Place 1 SC in the 57th stitch, where you had previously placed your stitch-marker. Place the stitch-marker on the same stitch, once you have placed your SC. Continue by placing SCs in the back loop (BL) of the next 50 stitches. Once you’ve reached the end of the round, SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 3: CH 1 and SC across the first 57 stitches (i.e. your front panel). Then, place SCs in the BL only of the next 50 stitches. Once you’ve reached the end of the round, SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 4: CH 3 and then place another 3 double crochets in the same stitch. Finish the stitch like a POP stitch but go through the top of the CH 3 rather than the first double crochet. Place 1 SC in the next stitch. Continue by repeating 1 POP and 1 SC until the 56th stitch. Place 1 POP in the 57th stitch replacing the stitch-marker. You should have 29 POPs. Finish the row by placing SCs in the back loop only. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 5: Repeat round 3.
Round 6: Repeat round 2
Round 7: Repeat round 3
Round 8: Repeat round 4
Round 9: Repeat round 3
Round 10: Repeat round 2.
Round 11: Repeat round 3. CH 1 and snip off Colour B yarn.
Round 12:Make a slip knot with Colour A (Light caramel). Put your hook through the first stitch, CH 1 and make 1 SC in the same stitch. Continue by repeating round 4.
Round 13: Repeat round 3.
Round 14: Repeat round 2.
Round 15: Repeat round 3.
Round 16: Repeat round 4.
Round 17: Repeat round 3.
Round 18: Repeat round 2.
Round 19: Repeat round 3.
Round 20: Repeat round 4.
Round 21: Repeat round 3. At the end of the row, drop but do not snip off the Colour A yarn. Attach Colour B, by yarning it over on your hook and pulling through the Colour A loop. Tighten the Colour A loop so it is almost level with your work.
Round 22: Using Colour B, CH 1 and 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch. SC 17. Complete the last SC using your Colour A. To do that, simply take a separate skein of yarn in Colour A, and use that to pull through the two loops in the last step in making your SC. Check out the video tutorial for this pattern if you are having trouble switching colours. You will need to switch colours several times in this pattern, so please be aware to complete the stitches before the colour change with your new colour. While carrying Colour B on the back of your piece, repeat the following stitches 1 POP and 1 SC for a total of 10 times, with your main colour. Make one further POP stitch but complete it by using Colour B to make the final CH 1. Drop Colour A and continue with Colour B by placing 18 SCs. For the final 50 stitches, place SCs in the BL only. SL ST into the first stitch. Drop Colour B and pick up Colour A for the next round.
Round 23: CH 1 and 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch. Place 17 SCs in the BL only, then SC for the next 11 stitches a standard SC. When crocheting the 11 SCs, try to bring to the start the yarn from the skein that you crocheted the POPs in the previous row. This way it will be ready to pick up at the right place on your next row. Finish the row by placing SCs in the BL only. SL ST to the first stitch. Essentially, you are placing SCs in the back loop only unless you are crocheting in the spaces where we previously created the design using the POP stitches.
Round 24: Using Colour B, CH 1 and SC 1 in the BL of the same stitch. Change colours before completing the SC. Make 1 POP with Colour A, but complete it with Colour B. SC 18 in the BL completing the last one with Colour A. Carry Colour B in the back of your work for the next few stitches so you are ready to pick it up later. Make 1 PO and 1 SC; repeat this for a total of 8 times. Make one POP and complete it using Colour B. Continue by placing 18 SCs in the BL. Complete the 18th SC using Colour A (again connecting a new skein as before). Make 1 POP but complete the CH 1 using Colour B. SC in the BL using Colour B for the rest of the row. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 25: Pick up Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL across all stitches except for where you have POP stitches, like on round 23. SL ST to the first stitch and drop this colour and pick up the Colour B.
Round 26: With Colour B (and carrying Colour A), CH 1 and SC in the BL of the first stitch. Complete the stich with Colour A. Using Colour A, and now carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP. Complete the last POP using Colour B. Continue with Colour B only and make 18 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A, picking it up from the previous row. While carrying your Colour B, make 1 POP and 1 SC and repeat this 6 times with Colour A. Make one more POP completing it with Colour B. Place 18 SCs in the BL only using Colour B, complete the last SC with Colour A and then while carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP in Colour A. Complete the last POP with Colour B. Continue with Colour B, placing SCs in the BL across the rest of your piece. SL ST to your first stich.
Round 27: Using Colour A, place SCs in the same way as previous odd numbered rounds (25 and 23) making sure to carry forward the yarn from the additional two skeins of Colour A.
Round 28: Picking up Colour B, CH 1 place 1 SC in the BL of the same stitch, then make 1 POP and 1 SC; complete the SC using Colour A (carry that from the start of the round). Using Colour A, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP again completing the last stich with Colour B which you will have carried through. Then make 18 SCs in the BL completing the last one by picking up Colour A from the round below. While carrying Colour B, make the following stitches with Colour A: 1 POP and 1 SC, repeat 4 times. Make 1 more POP completing with Colour B. Make 18 SCs in the BL using Colour B. Complete the last stich with Colour A and while carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP. Complete the last POP with Colour B and then make 1 SC, 1 POP and then SC in the BL until the end of the round with Colour B. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 29: CH 1 with the Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds 27, 25 etc.
Round 30: Using Colour B (carry Colour A), CH 1 and SC in the BL of the same stitch. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC; complete the last SC using Colour A. With Colour A (carry Colour B), make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP. Complete the last POP using Colour B, then SC in the BL of the next 18 stitches. Complete the last SC, using Colour A. Then make 1 POP and 1 SC, repeat for a total of 2 times, then make 1 POP and complete it using Colour B which you have carried. Using Colour B, pace 18 SCs in the BL. Complete the last SC using Colour A, then make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP completing it using Colour B which you will have carried. With Colour B, make 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then place SCs in the BL across the rest of the round. S ST to the first stitch.
Round 31: CH 1 with Colour A and SC in the BL as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 32: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and in the same stitch SC in the BL using Colour B. Then make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC completing it using Colour A. With Colour A (carry Colour B), make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP completing it with Colour B. Make SC in the BL only in the next 18 stitches, completing the last one using Colour A from the round below. Make 1 POP and compete it using Colour B. You can now snip off the extra Colour A skein and set it aside. Continue by placing 18 SCs in the BL only completing the last one using Colour A from the round below. With Colour A, carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it using Colour B. Then make 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP using Colour B. Continue by making SCs in the BL until the end of the row. SL ST to the first stitch.
Round 33: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 34: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 2 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with the Colour B. Then make 33 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 35: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 36: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL only in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 4 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 29 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 37: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 38: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL only in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 6 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour Ar. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 25 SCs in the BL. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 39: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 40: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 8 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with Colour B. Then make 21 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A and make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 41: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Round 42: Carrying Colour A, CH 1 and SC in the BL in the same stitch using Colour B. Then make another 10 SCs in the BL followed by 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and 1 SC completing the last SC with Colour A. Carrying Colour B, make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, completing the last POP with the Colour B. Then make 17 SCs in the BL only. Complete the last SC with Colour A nd make 1 POP, 1 SC and 1 POP completing it with Colour B which you have carried. Make 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP, 1 SC, 1 POP and then continue along the round by making SCs in the BL. SL ST to the first stich.
Round 43: CH 1 with Colour A and SC as described in previous odd rounds.
Rounds 44 – 62: repeat rounds 40 – 22 in reverse, i.e. round 44 is identical to round 40, 46 to 38 etc. The odd numbered rounds as crocheted as before.
Round 63: crochet like previous odd numbered rounds as before using the main colour.
From now onwards, you will continue by placing SCs in the BL and alternating between Colours A and B.
Round 64: Using Colour B, CH 1 and in the same stich and across all the other stitches place SC in the BL. SL ST in the first stitch.
Round 65: Using Colour A. CH 1 and in the same stich and across all the other stitches place SC in the BL. SL ST in the first stitch.
Rounds 66-104: Repeat rounds 64 and 65.
Finishing up and assembling the Pomegranate Love cushion:
If you are happy for the cushion cover to remain in place on your cushion, you can simply snip off your yarn, CH 1 and weave in your ends. You will then need to either SL ST with your crochet hook or use a darning needle and yarn and close the top and bottom openings. Just make sure you have fitted your cushion insert before stitching closed the second opening.
If you want to have your cushion cover close and open with buttons, follow the next additional steps.
Round 105: With Colour A, CH 1 and SL ST in the same stitch. SL ST for one more stitch. Then for the next 54 stitches places SCs in the BL. SL ST for the rest of the round. For ease, you may wish to transfer your stitch markers to the first and last of the 54 stitches, as you will only be crocheting in those for the remainder of the pattern.
Rounds 106 – 114: Still alternating colours as before, SC in the BL across the 54 stitches but place a normal SC at the first and last stitch. You will have to crochet on the right side only, similar to mosaic crochet. This means connecting and snipping off your yarn at the beginning and end of each row. Make sure you hide your ends as you crochet the rows. Also make sure to CH 1 at the end of each row to secure your work.
Round 115: Using Colour A, CH 1 and make 1 SC in the same stitch, 6 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, 2 CH and skip 2 stitches. The skipped stitches are your button holes. Then make 1 SC, 8 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, 2 CH and skip 2 stitches. Repeat another two times. Finish off by making 1 SC, 6 SCs in the BL, 1 SC, and CH 1 and snip off your yarn..
Round 116: repeat as in rounds 106-114 placing 2 SCs in the skipped stitches.
Rounds 117 – 118: repeat as on rounds 106-114.
Round 119: SL ST across all stitches, CH 1 and snip off your yarn.
To finish off your cushion, close the other side by stitching the sides together with a darning needle (or use a hook to SL ST across). Sew in your buttons at the right place to ensure a snug fit. It is a good idea to place the cushion in to make sure you place the buttons in the right place.
Tips and Tricks:
Carrying the yarn: make sure to carry your yarn by placing it in the back of your piece. You should do that in even numbered rows, to make sure the secondary yarn travels across the round. You should also do it on odd numbered rows to make sure that the yarn from the other skeins attached travels to the right place to be picked up in the next round. Make sure that the tension of the carried yarn is not too loose so that the carried yarn does not show through your piece. The video tutorial explains this in more detail if you need to check that out.
2. Using stitch markers: it will help you keep track of your stitches and to distinguish between your front and back panels, especially if you are more of a beginner. Remember to replace them on every row on your 1st and 57th stitch to mark the beginning and end of your front panel.
Pomegranate Love Crochet Cushion Pattern Diagram:
The diagram reflects the front panel design. Red squares represent Colour B; the white squares Colour A. Empty cells represent SCs (both standard and in the back loop only) and X’s represent POP stitches. The back panel is not represented nor is the CH 1 at the beginning of each round. The second half of the front panel is not represented as this is a series of rows in alternate colours.
Mini version (30x50cm or 12×20 inches)
The diagram depicts the front panel only. For the back panel you will need 38 stitches. The pattern is worked up in the same way as the larger version. For this version, I used Paintbox cotton DK yarn. I would recommend buying 2 50g skeins from each of the colours you want to use.
If you have been following along, in this series of blogs I am sharing how to make my Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket. This crochet blanket features four different crochet squares, each featuring a different geometric design. In case you missed the earlier blogs, check those here:
In this final blog post, I will talk about the final measurements of my blanket, how much yarn I used and how many squares I crocheted, and how I joined the squares and created a border for the blanket.
Check out the video tutorial here – use the timestamps provided to skip to different parts of the tutorial:
How many crochet squares will you need?
This totally depends on how big a blanket you want to make. For my blanket, I crocheted 12 squares of each design. So a total of 48 squares! With the border, my blanket measured 50 inches wide by 69 inches long. As mentioned in previous posts, each square measures 8×8 inches so that is a helpful guide when you are planning your blanket. You can customise your blanket and use fewer designs/squares or use all four but vary how many of each you make.
Before you start joining the crochet squares, I would recommend that you block them – but you can also block your final project as a whole. As I have used acrylic yarn, I placed my blanket on my bed on top of a bedsheet and used a spray bottle to dampen it. I made sure it was the right size and shape. Then I covered it with a clean towel and pressed it for a few seconds with the iron.
This step is not absolutely essential. Your blanket will still look lovely even if you don’t block the squares but it is one little thing you can do to give your blanket an extra good finish.
Preparing for joining the crochet squares
You can join the crochet squares in whichever way you want! However, if you want to achieve the same look as me then you will need to first crochet a border with some white yarn around each square. I used Paintbox Acrylic DK in Paper White (100).
With the right side facing up, make a slip knot and put your hook through any of stitches of your square. Yarn over and slip stitch. Make an SC in the same stitch and then place a single crochet across each stitch and row. Once you have gone round the square, slip stitch to the first stitch, chain one and fasten off your yarn.
The Hexagon Bobble and the Diamond Treble Squares are all made up of 35 rows. But the Berry Square is made up for 33 rows and the Puff Triangle has 37 rows. So for the Berry Square, add 2 extra SCs on each of the sides when you are working on the SCs. For the Triangle Puff, skip 2 rows on each of the sides (I chose to do that at the top and bottom of each side). This will mean that you will have 31 SCs on two of the sides and 35 SCs on the other two across all of your squares.
If you are not familiar with the SC stitch, check out my step by step video tutorial here:
Once you have crocheted the border around all the squares, place them in a pattern that suits you. I placed them in the following way (B = square berry , T = triangle puff, D = diamond treble, H = hexagon bobble):
Making the slip stitch join
I used the slip stitch join to connect the squares first vertically (columns) and then horizontally (rows).
To make the slip stitch join:
Start by crocheting together the columns of your blanket. Start by taking two squares and place them on a flat surface facing up. Use stitch markers to keep your work straight.
Make slipknot and put through your hook. Position your yarn underneath the two squares.
Find the first stitch of that side of your square. Place your hook through the front loop of the crochet square to your right.
Then place your hook through the back loop of the other crochet square, making sure you are on the first stitch of that side.
If you have difficulty in identifying the front and the back loop, the font loop is the one facing up and the back look is facing your flat surface when you have your squares laid out. See also the photo below.
Pick up your yarn and yarn over. Pull through all the loops.
You should repeat this across all the stitches of your crochet square side.
Once you are done with the first pair of squares, continue joining the next pair in the same way.
Once your are done with the whole column, CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.
Once you have crocheted all your columns, you can start working on your rows in the same way. When you reach the vertical joins, after you have completed the slip stitch join in the last pair of squares, skip the column join and find the closest to you crochet stitches on the other two squares which have been previously joined – they are easy to spit as they will look slightly elongated. Pick up the front loops on both of these stitches and slip stitch through them. Continue by picking up the font and back loops as before.
How to make the blanket border?
I crochet the border in ‘rows’ by slipstitching in the end to the first stitch and then turning the blanket and continuing to crochet. You can also make the border by crocheting in the round, however, the look and thickness of your border will be different. See photo below.
To make your blanket border:
Turn your blanket so that the wrong side is facing you as you crochet. Make a slipknot and put through your hook.
Choose a point in your blanket, it does not matter where, and put the hook through the stitch. Yarn over and make a slipstitch. Make an SC in the same stitch. Place a stitch marker to more easily spot which your first stitch is.
Place 1 SC in each of the stitches along your blanket.
When you reach the edge of each square place 2 SCs in the last stitch before the join. Then, for the join between two squares, place two SCs in the last ‘braid’ or ‘V’ shape stitch connecting the two squares on the front part of your blanket. Then, place another 2 SCs in the first stitch of the square after your join. You will need to make two decreases on the next row, so feel free to place a stitch marker on the second SC of your first square, and the second SC placed on the join stitch.
For the corners, place 3 SCs on a corner stitch, you can mark the middle stitch with a stitch marker.
Continue placing SCs across the edge of your blanket. When you have made your last SC, slipstitch into your first SC and CH 1.
For the second row of your border, turn your piece around and SC along the blanket. When you reach the edge of each square, where you previously placed two SCs, place 1 SC in one and then SC two together two times. If you placed stitch markers, this will help you identify the relevant stitches. To make one decrease, place your hook through your stitch, yarn over and pull through. Then, place your hook through the next stitch, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. Continue by placing 1 SC in each stitch and placing 3 SCs in the corners.
For the next two rows, simply SC across all stitches but continue making the increases on the corners.
Finish by slipstitching into the first stitch and CH 1. Do not fasten off your yarn, you still need it to make the crab stitch edge!
How to make the crab stitch edge?
Now make one more row with the crab stitch to finish off your blanket. The crab stitch is a reverse SC. To make the crab stitch:
Take your hook and place it in the previous stitch. If you hold your loop onto your hook with your index easier it will make this easier.
Put your hook through the stitch and yarn over.
Pull through, yarn over and pull though all loops.
Try to keep your tension even and not too tight as this help make the border look good. When you have placed one crab stitch or reverse SC into all stitches, slipstitch to the first stitch.
How much yarn will I need?
This will depend on your preferred size, but for my blanket I used the following approximate amount of Paintbox DK Acrylic yarn:
I love combining the treble crochet stitch with the single crochet! Instant texture, with practically no effort. And combining those stitches to create a diamond or rhombus is the perfect shape for this stitch.
The Diamond Treble Square is the third pattern featured in the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket. The blanket is made up of four different designs and in case you missed previous posts about it, part 1 of the series featured the Triangle Puff Square and part 2 was the Square Berry Square.
Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. However, all four pattern designs can be easily adapted. You can use different colours or make the square bigger or smaller. You can also use the designs to make lots of other things like a hot pad, dishcloth, scarf, shawl or garment. The options are endless!
Now on to making the Diamond Treble Square! You will find the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial. I am using US terminology only for this pattern.
Diamond Treble Square crochet pattern video tutorial:
For the Diamond Treble Square, you will need:
4.00 mm crochet hook
DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Raspberry Pink (143) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
Tapestry needle to weave in your ends
Pair of scissors
Crochet stitches used in this pattern:
The Diamond Treble Square pattern uses two beginner-friendly stitches: the single crochet stitch and the treble stitch. You can watch detailed video stitch tutorials here:
Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC across the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: SC in the first 3 stitches. *Make one treble stitch (TR). SC in the next 11 stitches. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 4: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 9 SCs. Repeat from * for another one time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 5: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 6: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 7: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 8: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 9: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 10: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 11: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 12: *7 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR. Repeat from * one more time. 7 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
Row 13: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 14: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 3 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
Row 15: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 16: 2 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
Row 17: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 18: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
Row 19: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Rows 20-29: repeat rows 8-17.
Row 30: repeat row 18.
Row 31: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 32: Repeat row 4.
Row 33: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
Row 34: Repeat row 2.
Row 35: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
If you prefer to follow a pattern schematic, here is one for the Diamond Treble Square. Empty cells represent a single crochet and cells marked with an ‘X’ represent treble crochet stitches. Remember to CH 1 at the end of each row, this is your turning chain and does not count towards your stitches.
Still a few days till Christmas and if you are thinking of making your loved ones a crocheted present, then I have 5 ideas for quick projects that you might like. Have a look at the suggestions for some quick and easy Christmas crochet gift ideas and let me know if you try any.
#1 Mini heart lace mug cozy
The mini heart mug cozy is a lovely and easy pattern, perfect for a handleless mug or cup. The main part of the sleeve is made using a combination of the single and double crochet stitches creating an elegant but discreet lace like effect. It is decorated with a mini heart for a more minimalist look – but you can go ahead and add as many hearts as you wish! It measures 7cm in height (just under 3 inches) and is around 23cm (around 9 inches) long all round.
If this sounds like your cup of tea, check out the free pattern here. The pattern gives you all the instructions for making a mug cozy the same size as described above but also how to adapt it for any handleless mug or cup!
#2 Amigurumi ‘Book lover’ Bookmark
Another quick pattern where you can even use some yarn scraps! This is a perfect idea for a cute amigurumi to go along with a book. It would make a lovely gift combination for the book lover in your life. You can also make it even more personalised and match the amigurumi book mark to the colours of the front cover of the book.
These ‘braided’ crochet napkin rings are perfect for any occasion but even more so for the festive season! You can make these napkin rings in a single colour or using three colours for a more colourful look. You can match your yarn to the colour of your tablecloth or use a colour to match a celebration, like Christmas, Valentine’s or anything else!
This free crochet napkin rings pattern uses the crochet cables technique. You will find making this pattern easier if you already know how to make the front and back post double crochet as well as the front and back post treble crochet (US terminology).
Could not get more Christmassy than a present featuring Christmas trees! So why not give tapestry crochet a go and make your loved one a pretty and festive pouch. You can add their favourite chocolates, bath products or other goodies for a complete present they will love!
You can check out the full pattern and zipper pouch instructions here.
#5 Thistle flower headband
A headband is a great gift for the winter months! You can create a beatiful one with a floral theme, featuring Scotland’s national flower: the thistle. You can make this into a monochrome headband or make the stems and flowers in the traditional green and purple so that the flowers stand out.
Find the pattern here, with all measurements to adapt it to the right size.
And if you are looking for more Christmas crochet gift ideas, check out my new ebook featuring Ten Mini Christmas Crochet Patterns. See the featured patterns in the photo below. More information about getting the ebook can be found here.
Embrace the holiday spirit with this quick and easy Mini Rudolph the Reindeer Christmas crochet bauble! Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or an advanced beginner, this is really a delightful project and you’ll be asking yourself how anyone could not let poor Rudolph play in any reindeer games!
The pattern is written in US terminology and uses a number of basic crochet stitches: use the single crochet to make the main part of the ornament, the bobble stitch for the nose and slip stitches for the antlers. You will only need to sew on the antlers; the rest of the ornament is pulled together very quickly with now sewing required.
What you will need:
Scheepjes catona yarn in brown (Root beer 157), light brown (Topaz 179) and red (Hot red 115)
3.00mm crochet hook
Stitch marker
Darning needle
2 safety eyes in 8mm diameter
Toy stuffing
pair of scissors
red and white string or ribbon, approx. 8 inches
Watch the free video tutorial here:
Rudolph the Reindeer Christmas Baublewritten pattern:
You can access the written pattern on my ribblr store.
Ten Mini Christmas Crochet Baubles:
If you want to crochet more mini baubles, access all ten mini Christmas crochet patterns available on my ebook here.
I promise you that these crochet patterns are sweet as pie! Literally, because this post features a pattern for making pies but also figuratively because the amigurumi pies are so darn sweet and cute to look at!
Whilst I have called this pattern a “pumpkin pie”, you can just change the colour of the “filling” and make this into a blueberry or apple pie. What I love about this pattern is that the entire main body of the pie is made without any sewing. You could use your hook or glue to add the finishing touches or use a darning or sewing needle but the actual pie and filling are one piece.
I have also given you two options for finishing the pie so you can choose the one you prefer: featuring plain cream on top or a lattice. Both are super easy but you will require a few different yarn colours depending on which one you are doing.
In the instructions below you will see information for making your crochet pie in two sizes so you can use them as ornaments, pin cushions, key chains or something totally different. The smaller sized pumpkin pie has a 1.5 inch base and the larger one has a 2 inch base. I will also give you instructions for how to make this into an amigurumi by adding a little face for your pie.
To make the amigurumi crochet pie you will need:
3.00 crochet hook
Scheepjes catona yarn in light brown (Topaz 179) for the pie crust and lattice, orange (Royal Orange 189) for the filling and white (Snow White 106) for the cream. If you want your pie to have cheeks and mouth then you will also need pink (Tulip 222) and black (Jet Black 110). You can use any other yarn you like but if your yarn is very different you may get a different sized pie.
A pair of scissors
A stitch marker
A darning needle
A pair of safety eyes, choose any size you prefer; I would recommend 9mm for the larger size and 6mm for the smaller size
Toy stuffing
Optional – a small piece of cardboard cut to match the size of your pie base
Optional – glue or nylon thread and needle, pins
Watch the video tutorial for crocheting the Pumpkin Pie pattern:
How to crochet the Pumpkin Pie pattern:
Below are the free pattern instructions using US terminology.
To make the body of the larger pie:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and place 6 adapted ‘X’ single crochets (SCs).
Round 2: Make an increase (2SCs in 1 stitch) across all stiches (12 SCs). Place your stitch marker in the first stitch to keep track of your progress.
Round 3: Make an increase and then make 1 SC. Repeat this for the rest of your round (18 SCs).
Round 4: Make an increase and then make 1 SC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat this for the rest of your round (24 SCs). Note: you may wish to offset your increases from this round onwards for a smoother look. You can do this by dividing into two the number of SCs and starting your round by making that number of SCs. For example, for round 4 you would start with 1 SC, then make an increase. You would then make 2 SCs and continue until you have 2 stices left. There you will make your last increase and then 1 SC which is your ‘missing’ SC from the start of the round. Do this for every other round where you have an even number of SCs to crochet after your increase.
Round 5: Make an increase and then make 1 SC in the next 3 stitches. Repeat this for the rest of your round (30 SCs).
Round 6: Make an increase and then make 1 SC in the next 4 stitches. Repeat this for the rest of your round (36 SCs). Make an invisible slip stitch (SL ST). Chain (CH) 1.
Round 7: SC across all stitches in the back loop only.
Round 8: Make an increase and then SC 11. Repeat 3 times (39 SCs).
Round 9: Make an increase and then SC 12. Repeat 3 times (42 SCs).
Round 10: Make an increase and then SC 13. Repeat 3 times (45 SCs). Make an invisible SL ST, CH 1.
Round 11: Make an increase and then SC 14. Repeat 3 times (48 SCs). Make an invisible join/slip stitch, CH 1.
Round 12: Make the edge of the ‘crust’. Place your hook into the front loop of the first stitch, and then yarn over and pull through. *Yarn over again, go through the stitch, yarn over and pull through. Repeat once more from *. You should have 6 loops on your hook. You will then yarn over and pull through all loops. SL ST in the front loop of the next stitch. Repeat those two stitches across the round. Make an invisible SL ST, CH 1 and snip off your yarn. Pull it to the inside of your piece to it is secure and does not show. Connect your other yarn to make the filling by doing a CH 1.
Round 13: With the new yarn, make an SL ST in the back loop of round 11.
Round 14: SC in the back loop only (48 SCs).
Round 15: Make two invisible decreases, then make 4 SCs. Repeat across the round (36 SCs).
Round 16: Make two invisible decreases, then make 2 SCs. Repeat across the round (24 SCs). Optional: at the bottom of your project place some cardboard cut to the same size as the base of your pie. This will help your pie retain its shape.
Round 17: Make an invisible decrease, then make 2 SCs. Repeat across the round (18 SCs). Start filling up your amigurumi with toy stuffing.
Round 18: Make an invisible decrease, then make 1 SC. Repeat across the round (12 SCs).
Round 19: Make an invisible decrease across all stitches (6 SCs). Fill up your amigurumi with stuffing until it looks good and plump.
Use the darning needle to close the top, sew in and out of the front loop of the 6 remaining stitches. Sew in the end and snip off the yarn. Your pumpkin pie is ready!
If decorating with a lattice:
CH 16 and make 1 SC in the second CH from hook, make 15 SCs in total. Snip off yarn and pull the loop thought. Repeat so you have two pieces. Then CH 14 to make a piece with 13 SCs. Snip off yarn and pull the loop thought. Repeat to make 4 such pieces.
Use the ends to sew the lattice in place as you would do for a pie; use glue or nylon thread as needed to further secure them in place.
If decorating with the cream:
CH 22. In third chain from hook make 1 HDC, CH 1, HCD. In next chain, 1HDC, 1CH, 1HCD. Continue in this way until the end.
CH 2 and slip stitch into the first CH. CH 1 and snip off the yarn. Use your darning needle to sew in and out of the original CH 22. Pull the yarn to cinch it together so it forms a nice ruffle.
To make the smaller size pumpkin pie:
Follow the same pattern until round 5 (30 SCs). Then continue in the following way.
Round 6: SC across all stitches in the back loop only. Make an invisible SL ST and CH 1 (30 SCs).
Round 7: Make an increase and then SC 9. Repeat 3 times (33 SCs).
Round 8: Make an increase and then SC 10. Repeat 3 times (36 SCs).
Round 9: Make an increase and then SC 11. Repeat 3 times (39 SCs). Make an invisible SL ST and CH 1.
Round 10: Make an increase and then SC 12. Repeat 3 times (42 SCs). Make an invisible SL ST and CH 1.
Round 11: Make the crust as described in round 12 above in the front loop of round 10.
Round 12: Using the colour of the filling, SL ST across all stiches in the back loop only of round 10.
Round 13: SC across your piece in the back loop only.
Round 14: Make 2 decreases and then SC 3. Repeat across your piece (30 SCs).
Round 15: Make 2 decreases and then SC 1. Repeat across your piece (18 SCs).
Round 16: Make 1 decrease and then SC 1. Repeat across your piece (12 SCs).
Round 17: Make decreases along all your stiches (6 SCs). Sew the opening closed and weave in any ends. Remember to add a piece of cardboard and the filling as described above.
If decorating with a lattice:
CH 16 and make a SL ST in the second CH from hook to make 15 SL STs. Repeat so you have two pieces.
Then CH 13 to make a piece with 12 SL STs. Repeat to make 4 such pieces.
If decorating with cream:
CH 15. In third chain from hook make 1 SC, CH 1, SC. In next chain, 1 SC, CH 1, SC. Continue in this way until the end.
CH 1 and slip stitch into the first CH. CH 1 and snip off the yarn. Use your darning needle to sew in and out of the original CH 15. Pull the yarn to cinch it together so it forms a nice ruffle.
To make this crochet pumpkin pie into an amigurumi:
Add the safety eyes after you have decreased your stitches to 18. Place them where you prefer; I tend to place them at the bottom half of the crochet pie and along the last round.
Once the main body of the crochet pie is finished, add the cheeks.
For the cheeks, take the pink yarn, make a magic circle and SC 5, SL ST to the fist SC, CH 1 and snip off the yarn. Place them just below and to the outside of the eyes.
To make the mouth, take your black yarn and form a ‘V’ below the eyes.
Add the cream at the top right or left of your piece and your crochet pumpkin amigurumi is ready!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern and I hope you give it a go! I would love to see your crochet pumpkin pies! So please do tag me on Instagram @butfirstwecrochet or reply to this post.
A mini Christmas crochet bauble of a robin – if this does not want to make you read further to get the full crochet pattern, maybe a cute pic of the final ornament will do the trick! And you can also check out the full set of mini Christmas baubles on my Etsy shop.
Robbie the Christmas robin bauble comes together very fast and it could be a great project for using yarn scraps. It measures just under 2×2 inches.
To make Robbie the Christmas robin you will need:
A 3.0mm hook
Scheepjes catona yarn in brown (root beer), red (hot red) and orange (saffron) – any other yarn will also work but the size of your ornament may differ
Stitch marker for keeping track of your first stich especially when making the body
A piece of red and white twine or string such as this, around 8 inches
Fabric glue (optional)
Watch the video tutorial for making Robbie the Christmas Robin mini crochet bauble:
How to crochet Robbie the Christmas Robin:
To make the body:
Row 1: Use the brown yarn and make a magic ring. Place 6 single crochets (SCs) in the magic ring. Use the stitch marker to mark your first stitch.
Row 2: Work a round of increases by placing 2 SCs in each stitch (12 stitches).
Row 3: Make another round of increases by repeating 2 SCs in one stitch , 1 SC – repeat this 6 times (18 stitches).
Row 4: Make another round of increases by repeating 2 SCs in one stitch, 1 SC, 1 SC – repeat 6 times (24 stitches).
Rows 5-6: SC along your piece but finish the last stitch with red yarn.
Row 7: Using the red yarn, make a round of slip stitches in the back loop only. Make an invisible slip stitch to your first stitch by placing your hook from the back of the first stitch pulling your loop with your working yarn through. Chain 1.
Row 8: SC along your piece.
At this point, make the loop for your ornament. With the darning needle put the two ends of the string through the top part of your piece and make a knot on the inside.
Row 9: Make a row of decreases. Make an invisible decrease by picking up the front loop of two stitches and making 1 SC. Follow by making 1 SC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat 6 times (18 stitches).
Row 10: Make another decrease followed by 1 SC. Repeat 6 times (12 stitches).
Place and secure the safety eyes. I placed them about two rows up from where the red part starts and with 3-4 stitches in-between them. Add stuffing as you go.
Row 11: Make decreases along all stitches (6 stitches). Snip off your yarn and leave some tail. Make sure you have added enough stuffing. Then sew the opening closed. Weave in the end.
To make the wings:
Row 1: Use the brown yarn and make a magic circle. Place 6 SCs.
Row 1: Make 2 SCs in one stitch, 2 SCs in one stitch, 1 half double crochet (HDC) and 1 double crochet (DC) in one stitch and 2 DCs in the next stitch. Chain 1 and snip off your yarn. Make 2.
Place the wings on the sides of your robin so they intersect the two colours in the middle.
Weave in place with the yarn ends and/or glue in place.
To make the beak, using your darning needle form a triangle. Weaving the yarn around the two vertical sides to fill in the triangle. Weave in the ends. Robbie the Christmas robin is ready!
Stitches used in this crochet pattern:
This pattern uses four basic crochet stitches: the single crochet, the half double crochet, the double crochet and the slip stitch. You can find detailed video tutorials for all of them directly below:
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Looking for somewhere to store your Halloween candy this autumn? I’ve got you! With this Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Basket, you are bound to add some wow factor to this year’s trick or treating! The basket measures 18cm in diameter and 19cm in height – but you can make this smaller or larger by crocheting additional or fewer rounds as described below.
This pattern is written in US terminology. Check out the blog post below for the full pattern instructions and video tutorial.
What you will need to make the Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Basket:
10.00mm crochet hook for making the basket
4.00mm crochet hook for closing each round of the basket (a smaller size hook helps make the seam less visible)
6.50mm crochet hook for making the eyes and mouth of the pumpkin
Stitches used in the Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Basket:
Single crochet stitch
Single crochet cross stitch
Slip stitch
Double crochet stitch
Treble crochet stitch
The Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Basket video tutorial:
How to crochet the Halloween Pumpkin Basket:
Round 1: Using the orange yarn and your 10.00mm hook, make a magic circle. Place 6 single crochets (SCs) in the magic circle. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and chain (CH) 1 using your 3.00mm hook. To make an invisible slip stitch, simply pull out your loop and place your crochet from the back of your piece into the first stitch of the round. With your hook pull the loop through towards the back of your piece. Check out the video tutorial for more details. For this pattern, you will always use your 3.00mm hook to slip stitch. Then CH 1 with your 10.00 hook.
Round 2: With the 10.00mm hook and place 2 SCs in each stitch. Place your stitch marker on the first stitch. You should have 12 stitches. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and CH 1.
Round 3: Make 2 SCs in the first stitch and then 1 SC in the next stitch. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Repeat six times. You should have 18 stitches. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and CH 1.
Round 4: Make 2 SCs in the first stitch and then 1 SC in the next two stitches. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Repeat six times. You should have 24 stitches. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and CH 1.
Round 5: Make 2 SCs in the first stitch and then 1 SC in the next three stitches. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Repeat six times. You should have 30 stitches. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and CH 1.
Round 6: Make 2 SCs in the first stitch and then 1 SC in the next four stitches. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Repeat six times. You should have 36 stitches. Make an invisible slip stitch into the first crochet stitch and CH 1.
If you want to make a larger basket, continue by crocheting more rounds. If you would like a smaller basket, you can stop at an earlier round.
Round 7: Slip stitch across your piece. To close the round, snip off your yarn and pull the tail through the stitch. Using a darning needle, pull the yarn under both loops of your first stitch from the top to the bottom. Then, insert your needle through the middle of the last stitch from the front to the back. Weave in your end.
Round 8: Re-attach the yarn to your first stitch by making a CH 1. Place your hook in the two back loops and make single crochet cross stitches. These are made like a normal crochet but with a key difference: place your hook in the stitch, yarn under and pull through yarn over and pull through all the loops. To yarn under, your yarn needs to be under (rather than over) your hook. For more information, check out the video tutorial. Continue in the same way all around your piece. Make an invisible slip stitch and CH 1.
Rounds 9 – 17: Repeat for a total for 10 rows using the single crochet cross stitch. If you would like to make the basket taller, you can make more rounds. i would not recommend making fewer rounds, as otherwise the placement of the eyes and mouth may look too crowded.
Round 18: Skip your first stitch and then slip stitch around your piece. Close the round by sniping off your yarn. Using your tapestry needle, weave in the ends.
To make the eyes of your pumpkin, pick up the black yarn and 6.50mm crochet hook. CH 4 and in the second CH from hook, make 1 SC. Then make 1 double crochet followed by 1 treble crochet. CH 1 and snip off your yarn. Using your tapestry needle, weave in the ends. Make two.
To make the mouth, still using the 6.50mm hook and black yarn, CH 14. In the second CH from hook, make 1 SC. Make another SC and then single crochet two together (SC2TOG). Then make another SC in the next two stitches. Make an increase by placing 3 SCs in the next stitch followed by another SC in the next two stitches. Then SC2TOG and then SC in the next two stitches. CH 1 and snip off your yarn. Using your tapestry needle, weave in the ends.
To assemble the basket, place the eyes and mouth on your piece using pins. I placed my eyes about two rows from the top of the basket and with three stitches distance between them. The mouth was placed two rows under the eyes. Once you are happy with the placement, glue the eyes and mouth in place. Once this is dry, you can further secure it by using the invisible thread and needle. When sewing, try not to split your yarn, for a more seamless look.
Your basket is now ready! Fill it with candy or anything else you like. It makes a pretty great plant pot too!
Comment below if you give this pattern a go. I would love to know if you liked it and see your creations!
Traditionally, the Greek evil eye talisman protects against malevolent gazes and those who wish you unwell. In Greece and other parts of the wider region, you will see people adding them to key chains, home decorations or hanging from their car mirror. The evil eye is also featured in a lot of jewellery so why not in crochet too?
Make this evil eye crochet applique and all stares will be on you – but in a good way! Check out the full evil eye crochet applique below. You can use it to decorate or upcycle different items. I used it to make a pretty little crochet purse – full details coming up in a future post.
I made the crochet applique in two different sizes using the same pattern and hook size but different yarns. The larger one using Lion Brand Cotton 24/7 measures 8cm wide and 7cm tall. The smaller one using Scheepjes Catona yarn measures 7.5cm wide and 6cm tall. I used the latter one for the purse described below.
To make the Evil Eye crochet applique you will need:
3.00mm crochet hook
Scheepjes catona yarn in jet black, snow white, bluebell, electric blue and saffron
To attach a new yarn, I always chain 1 in the first stitch and then make the first stitch of that round in the same place. However, if you prefer another way of attaching your new colour, you can do that instead.
Round 1: Using your black yarn, make a magic ring. Place 6 single crochets (SCs) in the magic ring. Slip stitch into your first stitch and snip off the black yarn.
Round 2: Continue using your white yarn, place 2 SCs in each stitch. Slip stitch into the first stitch and snip off the yarn white yarn. You should have a total of 12 stitches.
Round 3: Continue using the light blue yarn, place 2 SCs in the first stitch and then make 1 SC in the next stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. Slip stitch into your first stitch and snip off the light blue yarn. You should have a total of 18 stitches.
Round 4: Using the blue yarn, place 2 SCs in the first stitch and then place 1 SC in the next two stitches. Repeat for a total of six times. You should have a total of 24 stitches. Slip stitch into the first stitch.
Round 5: Place 2 SCs in the first stitch and then place 1 SC in the next three stitches. Repeat for a total of six times. Slip stitch to the first stitch. Snip off the blue yarn. You should have a total of 30 stitches.
Round 6: Using the white yarn, place 2 SCs in the first stitch and then place 1 SC in the next four stitches. Repeat for a total of six times. You should have a total of 36 stitches. Slip stitch into the first stitch.
Round 7: Make 6 SCs. Then make 1 half double crochet (1 HDC), 2 double crochets (2 DCs) in the same stitch and then 1 treble crochet (1 TR). Then make 2 DCs in the next stitch, 1 HDC and 13 SCs. Continue by making 1 HDC, 2 DCs in the next stitch, 1 TR, 2 DCs in the next stitch, 1 HDC and 7 SCs. Slip stitch to the first SC. Snip off the white yarn.
Round 8: Using the yellow (saffron) yarn, slip stitch all around your piece in the back loop only. Snip off the yarn leaving a 4-inch tail. Using your darning needle go under and then over the first slip stitch for a seamless finish. Watch the video tutorial below for a more detailed overview of how to finish the last round.
Weave in the ends.
Stitches used in the Evil Eye Crochet applique pattern:
This pattern uses five basic stitches: the single crochet, the half double crochet, the double crochet, the treble crochet and the slip stitch. You can find detailed video tutorials for all of them directly below:
The Evil Eye Crochet Applique pattern video tutorial:
Let me know if you give this pattern a go. I would love to know if you liked it and see your creations.
With Valentine’s just around the corner, check out three ways you can use a crochet heart applique. Scroll down and whip up some extra special gifts for your loved ones using the same heart applique pattern. I have put together three great ideas for you to try out – needless to say I am in love with all of them!
I love a crochet applique and one of the first crochet patterns I ever made was a heart! This was a free pattern and it is still available here – in both US and UK terminologies. Over the years I have used it again and again for lots of projects including the ones listed below. You can find the video tutorial for the heart applique directly below. It measures about 2×2 inches but if you stop after the first round you get a smaller sized heart. Using a cotton yarn is probably best. I have used Scheepjes catona primarily but any similar yarn will give you a similar end result.
Three ways to use a crochet heart applique: Hearts applique cushion cover
While you may not have the time or be in the mood to crochet a whole cushion, you can use a bunch of heart appliques to decorate an existing cushion cover! This project would be perfect for using up leftover yarn or upcycling an older cushion cover.
Measure your cushion cover and crochet enough hearts to cover is or to create a design you like and sew them on. And you are done!
Check out how I made this pretty Valentine’s hearts cushion here. The two tones work really well but you can customise it in whichever way you please by using different colours for the hearts or the cushion cover or changing up the way that the hearts are placed to create a different design.
Three ways to use a crochet heart applique: Hearts applique cushion cover
Three ways to use a crochet heart applique: Crochet amigurumi ‘Book Lover’ bookmark
If you have a book lover in your life, this might be the little present for you! Perfect on its own or to pair it with a book you are gifting. The Amigurumi ‘Book Lover’ bookmark pattern is very beginner-friendly and you do not need too much yarn so you can whip one up in no time. You can find the full written instructions here and directly below the video tutorial.
Three ways to use a crochet heart applique: Mini heart lace mug cozy crochet pattern
Whether you call it a mug cozy or a cup sleeve, this crochet pattern features a beginner-friendly set of stitches to create a lace like effect for the main sleeve and you then decorate it with a mini heart. I love the simplicity of this pattern; it is understated but still super cute and stylish. Check out the video tutorial below – and you can find the written instructions here.
You can adapt this pattern to any handle-less cup or to use for a reusable mug or water bottle. And you can of course use any colours you like to match the colour pallet of your cup or to give different mugs the same look and feel.
I hope you liked these patterns and that they gave you some inspiration to use crochet heart appliques for different makes. If you are looking for more crochet heart projects, check out my tapestry crochet heart pattern here.
Using the heart tapestry crochet pattern to make a zipper bag
Let me know in the comments below if you try any of these patterns or tag me on Instagram!
If you are tired with how your mugs are looking or want an extra warm feeling as you are sipping a hot drink, mug cozies might be what you need! They are endlessly customisable for every shape and size and they are quick projects to start and finish.
The mini heart cup or mug cozy is a lovely and very easy pattern, perfect for a handleless mug or cup. The main part of the sleeve is made using a combination of the single and double crochet stitches creating an elegant but discreet lace like effect. It is decorated with a mini heart for a more minimalist look – but you can go ahead and add as many hearts as you wish! It measures 7cm in height (just under 3 inches) and is around 23cm (around 9 inches) long all round.
If this sounds like your cup of tea, check out the free pattern below. The pattern gives you all the instructions for making a mug cozy the same size as described above but also how to adapt it for any handleless mug or cup!
To make the Mini Heart Lace mug cozy you will need:
Scheepjes Catona yarn (for the two mug cozies I used Snow White (106), Garden Rose (251), and Shocking Pink (114)) or choose any other similar weight yarn in colours of your preference
2.5mm crochet hook
pair of scissors
darning needle
stitch marker
measuring/sewing tape
thread in the colour of the mini heart and needle (optional)
your mug!
Stitches used in the Mini Heart Lace mug cozy crochet pattern:
This is a beginner-friendly pattern so only four basic stitches are used: the single crochet, the double crochet, the treble crochet and the slip stitches. You can find detailed video tutorials for all of them directly below:
The Mini Heart Lace mug cozy crochet pattern:
Step 1: Measure the circumference of your mug. My mug has a slight taper so I measured it across the middle. The yarn is somewhat stretchy so it will easily accommodate the slight change in size.
Step 2: Using your white yarn or other preferred colour for the main body of the mug cozy, chain (CH) multiples of 3 until you have reached the length you need for the chain to hug your mug. It is better to CH less rather than more as you want your mug cozy to fit snuggly on your mug. For my mug, with a circumference of 24.5cm (9.65 inches), I made 54 CH (18 x 3 = 54).
Step 3: For Round 1, make sure your CH is not twisted and slip stitch into the first CH. CH 1 and make a single crochet (SC) in the same CH. Put a stitch marker in that stitch. Please SCs across your piece. You should have the same number of SCs as the number of CHs you made. I had 54 SCs.
Step 4: To start Round 2, slip stitch into the first stitch and CH 1. In the same stitch, place 1 SC, CH 1 and 1 double crochet (DC) together. Replace the stitch marker in the SC. Skip 2 SC. *Make 1 SC, CH 1 and 1 DC in the next stitch. Skip 2 SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round.
Step 5: For Round 3, work the following stitches in each CH 1 space: 1 SC, CH 1 and 1 DC. To help you remember how many times you need to do this, simply remember the number by of multiples of 3 CH that you made in the beginning. In my case, I made 18 sets of 3 CH. So I will have 18 CH 1 spaces to work in.
Step 6: Check that your piece fits around your mug. Repeat Round 3 until you are happy with the size of your mug cozy. For my mug, which has a height of 14.5 cm (5.71 inches) I made another 11 rounds.
Step 7: For Round 15, make SCs around your piece. Place 1 SC into each SC, each CH 1 space and each DC. You should have the same number of stitches as you did after Round 1.
Step 8: Pick up your other yarn colour and make a magic circle. CH 3 and then make 4 DCs in the magic circle. Then, place two treble crochets (TR). Tighten your magic cricle a bit. CH 3 and slip stitch into the magic circle. Then made 2 TR, 4 DCs and slip stitch into the 3rd CH. CH 1 and snip off your yarn. Tighten your magic circle fully.
Step 9: Weave in all your ends and sew in place the mini heart. So that the stitches are not visible, go through the edge of your heart just inside of the two outer loops. Alternatively pick a sewing needle and corresponding thread and use that to sew the heart in place. Make sure that the heart is placed in the middle of your piece and on the opposite side of your mug cozy seam. Once the heart is sewn in place, cast off your yarn and sew in the ends. Your mug cozy is ready!
Mini Heart Lace mug cozy crochet pattern video tutorial:
Let me know if you give this pattern a go. I would love to know if you liked it and see your creations.
