The Hearts Zipper Tapestry Bag makes a very pretty accessory case, perfect for storing make-up, jewellery or even crochet hooks! It measures approximately 16cm by 23cm but the pattern includes the full pattern repeat and measurements so you can make this as small or big as you desire! Adding a zipper or a lining is optional but gives your pouch a finished look and it will better protect the items you wish to store in it. The pattern includes instructions for making a lining and adding a zipper by hand so no sewing machine is needed if you don’t have one.
To make the bag, it would be good if you have some previous knowledge of tapestry crochet, working with two colours and working in the round. While full instructions for the stitches and techniques are provided, prior experience will help you keep your tension even as you make the bag.
What you will need to make the Hearts Tapestry Crochet Zipper Bag:
- Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn in two colours of your choice; for the pictured zipper bag Silver and Pink was used
- Crochet hook size 3.5mm
- Two stitch markers, preferably of different colour
- Darning needle
- Corresponding thread and needle
- Pair of scissors
- Fabric in a colour of your choice, ideally matching the main colour of the bag
- Pins or clover clips
If you are making the bag in the size described above, you will need one ball of yarn per colour. This will give you enough yarn to comfortably make up to two zipper bags. If you choose a larger size, make sure you consider purchasing more yarn, so you have enough to finish your project.
For this size, you will require one piece of fabric measuring approximately 25cm by 34cm. Ideally the fabric and thread used will match the main colour of your zipper bag. The zipper should be around 25cm; it should again match the main colour of your bag. By having a similarly coloured main yarn, zipper, fabric and thread, your stitches will not be very visible at all. Of course, you can use a contrasting colour for any of these if you prefer!
Using the Lion Brand 24/7 cotton with a 3.5mm hook you should have approximately a 10 x 10cm square by crocheting 22 stitches by 18 rows.
Stitches used in Hearts Tapestry Crochet Zipper Bag:
- Single crochet stitch
- Modified single crochet
- Slip stitch
This pattern uses US terminology. Check out the videos below for detailed stitch tutorials:
Hearts Tapestry Crochet Zipper Bag pattern repeat:
The diagram below provides an overview of the pattern. All stitches are modified single crochet stitches and the coloured boxes with an ‘x’ indicate the stitches where you will use your contrasting colour to create the heart shape. The pattern repeat for this heart design is 14 + 7 + 3. You can multiply the first 14 stitches as many times as you want to get the width you desire and then you have to always add 7+3. So for example, for the zipper bag featured below the number of stitches is (14 x 3) + 7 + 3 = 52 Chains (CH). The 52nd CH is your turning CH.
To allow you to adapt this pattern, the red box below measures 5.5cm in width and 6.5cm in height. You can use those measurements to adapt your own design and project size.
To make the pictured zipper bag, I used Lion Brand 24/7 cotton in Silver (Colour A) and Pink (Colour B). You can switch these colours for others of your preference. To maintain the same size bag, preferably use another Lion Brand 24/7 colour or similar weight yarn, checking your gauge against the relevant paragraph above.
Take your Colour A and chain (CH) 52.
Make your first single crochet (SC) in the second CH from hook. Place a stitch marker. This will be the first stitch on each of your rounds.
Continue by placing 1 SC on each of the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 51 stitches.
In your last stitch, place another SC. Put your second stitch marker on that stitch. You may want to use a differently coloured stitch marker so you can distinguish it from the other one.
You will now work on the ‘bottom’ of your CH. The stitch with the stitch marker will divide your front and back of your crochet bag.
Turn your piece slightly and place another SC in the same stitch. Place SCs along your piece, effectively on the opposite side of the stitches you have already made. Capture your loose yarn from your CH as you go.
NOTE: Because we will be working on both sides of the CH to create the base of the crochet bag, I recommend picking up both top loops of your CH when making the first 51 stitches. This will give your base a tighter look.
For the stitches on the ‘bottom’ side of your CH, you can place your stitches in the remaining loop.
On your last stitch, you should place a second SC. In total, you should have 51 SCs for your front panel (with the first SC bearing a stitch marker), 1 SC to mark the side with a stitch marker, another 51 SCs making up your back panel and 1 SC to make the other side.
For a seamless look, I begin the next round by simply crocheting into the first stitch again. By replacing the stitch marker on the first stitch, it is always easy to check when the new round begins. Remember to replace both your stitch markers as this helps ensure your crochet bag is being worked up correctly.
Now we begin the hearts pattern. All stitches will be worked by using the modified SC (MSC). Detailed video and written instructions are available here.
Round 1: Still using Colour A make your first MSC but place Colour B in the back so that the stitch catches it too. Leave a bit of a tail so you can weave that in later. Still hiding the Colour B yarn behind your work, continue by placing 3 MSCs in Colour A. Make 1 MSC but drop Colour A and complete the stitch by yarning under with Colour B. *Make 1 MSC with Colour B but complete the stitch with Colour A. Make 13 MSCs but drop Colour A and use Colour B to complete the last MSC. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. Then, make 1 MSC with Colour B but complete the stitch with Colour A. Make 5 MSCs in Colour A. You will have then reached the end of your front panel. The side stitches are made in colour A only. Repeat the same sequence of stitches for your back panel and second side stitch.
The instructions that follow indicate what colour should be used for each stitch. As described in round 1, every time a stitch is made in a new colour, the stitch before needs to be completed in that new colour. So as to keep the length of the pattern instructions reasonable, this is not highlighted in the instructions going forward but is taken as understood.
Round 2: 3 MSCs in Colour A, *3 MSCs in Colour B, 11 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 3 MSCs in Colour B, 4 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 3: 2 MSCs in Colour A, *5 MSCs in Colour B, 9 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 5 MSCs in Colour B, 3 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 4: 1 MSC in Colour A, *7 MSCs in Colour B, 7 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 7 MSCs in Colour B, 2 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 5: Repeat round 4.
Round 6: 1 MSC in Colour A, *3 MSCs in Colour B, 1 MSC in Colour A, 3 MSCs in Colour B, 3 MSCs in Colour A, 1 MSC in Colour B, 3 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 3 MSCs in Colour B, 1 MSC in Colour A, 3 MSCs in Colour B, 2 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 7: 10 MSCs in Colour A, *3 MSCs in Colour B, 11 MSCs in Colour B. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 1 MSC in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 8: 9 MSCs in Colour A, *5 MSCs in Colour B, 9 MSCs in Colour B. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 1 MSC in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 9: 8 MSCs in Colour A, *7 MSCs in Colour B, 7 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 1 MSC in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Round 10: repeat round 9.
Round 11: 4 MSCs in Colour A, *1 MSC in Colour B, 3 MSCs in Colour A, 3 MSCs in Colour B, 1 MSC in Colour A, 3 MSCs in Colour B, 3 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 1 MSC in Colour B, 5 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Rounds 12- 21: Repeat rounds 2-11.
Rounds 22 – 25: Repeat rounds 2-5.
Round 26: 1 MSC in Colour A, *3 MSCs in Colour B, 1 MSC in Colour A, 3 MSCs in Colour B. 7 MSCs in Colour A. Repeat from * for a total of 3 times. 3 MSCs in Colour B, 1 MSC in Colour A, 4 MSCs in Colour B. Repeat all stitches for your back panel.
Rounds 27-28: place MSCs in Colour B.
Round 29: Slip stitch across all stitches, CH 1 and snip off yarn.
Weave in your ends using a darning needle.
- Crochet a bit more tightly than normal. This will help make sure your non-working yarn does not show from behind your stitches. Keep your non-working yarn straight and taut against your piece – not too loose, not too tight.
- Keep your non-working yarn in the back, just below the back loop of the stitch you are about to work in.
- You can use your non-working yarn to pull stitches closer together if you see that the yarn is sometimes showing in the back. Just don’t overdo it as this might make your work look lumpy on the sides.
- Keep the tension consistent. To keep you right, check the pieces of your work against a 90-degree surface like the corner of a table.
- There are many ways to change colours. For me what works best is to do the following: if I am changing from Colour A to B, I place the Colour A yarn in the front of my piece and hold it in place. I pick up Colour B from the back and complete the stitch. I then put Colour A to the back just below the back loop of the stitches I need to work in. If I am changing from Colour B to A, I simply drop Colour B and pick up Colour A.
Adding the lining and zipper:
Take your fabric and making sure there are not creases fold it in half with the good sides touching each other. Fold it on the longer edge so you should have a rectangle that is just a bit larger than your bag. Using a sewing machine or a needle and thread sew the edges, leaving a seam of just under 1 cm on each side. Using an iron or just your fingers, press around the top edge of your fabric to create the top seam. Make sure it fits your bag without too much excess fabric.
You are now ready to sew your lining and zipper to your bag. You can do this together or in two separate steps depending on how comfortable you are sewing. If you prefer, you can sew in the zipper first and then sew the lining; if you are using a similar colour thread the extra stitches will not show. Whichever way you decide to assemble your zipper bag, here are some tips:
- Use pins or clover clips to keep your zipper and lining in place.
- Make sure your lining and zipper are placed straight all around your piece. Make sure that the lining will not impede the operation of the zipper.
- To keep your zipper flush with the top of your zipper bag, the zipper teeth only should be visible when you place your piece flat on your working surface.
- If you are sewing the lining and zipper together, sandwich the zipper in between your crochet and lining, as pictured below. To start sewing, hide your knot by pulling your needle from behind the zipper.
- Keep your stitches short to minimise how much they are visible.
- To keep your stitches even, pick a crochet row and use it as a guide for your needle. I made sure that my needle went in and came out just underneath the slip stitch row.
Comment below if you have any questions about this pattern and let me know if you give this a go!