The Hexagon Bobble Square: Part 4 of the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket

We are finally on to the fourth and last square for this crochet blanket. The Hexagon Bobble Square is very beginner-friendly. It features the single crochet and bobble stitches. As I explain below, the bobble stitch is slightly adapted so that its texture matches that of the other squares in this blanket.

In case you missed the previous three squares, here are the links:

The Geometric Squares blanket is made up of four crochet squares each featuring a different geometric shape created with a different stitch. The stitches selected give your piece texture so the final look is gorgeous. The blanket itself can be adapted in many different ways: you can use only one, or two crochet squares, make them all in one colour or choose different colour combinations (gradient, rainbow etc) and you can also adapt the size of your blanket as well as how the squares are joined and the kind of blanket border you want.

In the next blog post of this series I will post about how many blanket squares you will need, how to crochet them together and add a border to your blanket. If you would like to receive an update when this new blog post it out, you can subscribe to my blog to get notified by email any time I post.

Let’s get started with our Hexagon Bobble Square! If you try out this pattern, I would love to hear from you.

For the Hexagon Bobble Square you will need:

  • 4.00 mm crochet hook
  • DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Melon Sorbet (116) and Bubblegum Pink (150). You can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you may end of up with a differently sized crochet square
  • Tapestry needle to weave in your ends (I have previously bought those on amazon)
  • Pair of scissors

Crochet stitches used in this pattern:

This pattern uses two very simple stitches: the single crochet stitch and the bobble stitch. You will find video tutorials for both directly below. Just remember that for the purposes of this pattern we have adapted the bobble stitch as explained below.

Remember to stop adding half completed double crochets when you have four loops on your hook, rather than six as described in the video tutorial. This is to ensure the texture of the bobble stitch matches that of the other squares in this pattern. Because the bobble stitch has a very strong stitch definition, we need to tweak it a bit to fit in with the more discreet-looking berry, puff and treble stitches.

Check out the video tutorial

Row by row instructions to make the Hexagon Bobble Square:

Chain (CH) 32.

Row 1: Place a single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. Continue along the chains by placing one SC in each space. You should have a total of 31 SCs at the end of your first row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 2: Place 1 SC in the first 3 stitches. Then, *make a bobble stitch (BO). Remember you are making an adapted BO stitch. This is made by yarning over (YO), placing your hook in the stitch. YO and pulling through, YO again and pulling through the first two loops only. Repeat this 3 times – you should have 4 loops on your hook. Then YO and pull through all the loops.

After that, place 1 SC, 1 BO and 8 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. Then place 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Row 3: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Row 4: 2 SCs, *1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 6 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. To finish your row, place 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn,

Row 5: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Row 6: 1 SC, * 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. Finish off your row by placing 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO, 1 SC, 1 BO and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.

Row 7: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Row 8: repeat row 4.

Row 9: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Row 10: repeat row 2.

Rows 11-13: SC across your piece. You should have 31 SCs. CH 1 and turn.

Rows 14-25: repeat rows 2-13.

Rows 26-35: repeat rows 2-11. On row 35, finish off with a CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.

Pattern diagram

If you prefer following a pattern schematic, here is one for the Hexagon Bobble Square. Empty cells represent a single crochet and cells marked with an ‘X’ represent the adapted bobble crochet stitches. Remember to CH 1 at the end of each row, this is your turning chain and does not count towards your stitches.

Happy Crochet!

The Diamond Treble Square: Part 3 of the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket

I love combining the treble crochet stitch with the single crochet! Instant texture, with practically no effort. And combining those stitches to create a diamond or rhombus is the perfect shape for this stitch.

The Diamond Treble Square is the third pattern featured in the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket. The blanket is made up of four different designs and in case you missed previous posts about it, part 1 of the series featured the Triangle Puff Square and part 2 was the Square Berry Square.

Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. However, all four pattern designs can be easily adapted. You can use different colours or make the square bigger or smaller. You can also use the designs to make lots of other things like a hot pad, dishcloth, scarf, shawl or garment. The options are endless!

Now on to making the Diamond Treble Square! You will find the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial. I am using US terminology only for this pattern.

Diamond Treble Square crochet pattern video tutorial:

For the Diamond Treble Square, you will need:

  • 4.00 mm crochet hook
  • DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Raspberry Pink (143) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
  • Tapestry needle to weave in your ends
  • Pair of scissors

Crochet stitches used in this pattern:

The Diamond Treble Square pattern uses two beginner-friendly stitches: the single crochet stitch and the treble stitch. You can watch detailed video stitch tutorials here:

To make the Diamond Treble Square:

  • Make a loop and CH 32.
  • Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC across the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 2: SC in the first 3 stitches. *Make one treble stitch (TR). SC in the next 11 stitches. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 3: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 4: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 9 SCs. Repeat from * for another one time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 5: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 6: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 7: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 8: 2 SCs, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 9: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 10: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR and 3 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 11: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 12: *7 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR. Repeat from * one more time. 7 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 13: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 14: 3 SCs, *1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 3 SCs, CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 15: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 16: 2 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 4 SCs, 1 TR, 4 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 2 SCs. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 17: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 18: 1 SC, *1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 7 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR, 1 SC, 1 TR and 1 SC. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 19: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Rows 20-29: repeat rows 8-17.
  • Row 30: repeat row 18.
  • Row 31: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 32: Repeat row 4.
  • Row 33: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 34: Repeat row 2.
  • Row 35: SC in all the stitches. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 and turn.

If you prefer to follow a pattern schematic, here is one for the Diamond Treble Square. Empty cells represent a single crochet and cells marked with an ‘X’ represent treble crochet stitches. Remember to CH 1 at the end of each row, this is your turning chain and does not count towards your stitches.

Happy Crochet

The Square Berry Square: part 2 of the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket

The Square Berry Square is a bit of a tongue twister but it is a super fun and easy pattern. As the name suggests, this crochet pattern uses the berry stitch to create a series of squares. This is the second pattern that will make up our Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket which is made up of four different designs in total, all featuring a geometric shape made with a different stitch. In case you missed it, part 1 of the series featured the Triangle Puff Square.

As mentioned in previous posts, in this series of blog posts I will share the four designs featured in this blanket and I will also go over how you can assemble the blanket squares and crochet a border and other details in terms of materials etc.

Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. However, the Square Berry pattern can be easily adapted. You can use different colours or make the square bigger or smaller. You can also make a blanket or other item, like a scarf, shawl or garment just using this pattern. The blanket too is also super versatile as you can again adapt it to your preferred colour palette, pick a specific design that you may want to use more than another and you can also adapt the blanket size to fit your needs. You can also change the way that the crochet squares are joined up to give your blanket a different style. So the combinations are endless!

Now, let’s start working on our Square Berry Square! You will find the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial. I am using US terminology only for this pattern:

For the Square Berry Square, you will need:

  • 4.00 mm crochet hook
  • DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Vintage Pink (155) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
  • Tapestry needle to weave in your ends (I have previously purchased these on Amazon)
  • Pair of scissors

Crochet stitches used in this pattern:

The Square Berry Square pattern uses two beginner-friendly stitches: the single crochet stitch and the berry stitch. If you would like to watch a tutorial about the single crochet, check out this video tutorial.

The berry stitch is explained in detail in the Square Berry Square video tutorial. But here are some written instructions to help you out, alongside the video.

The Berry Stitch is similar to the Bobble Stitch but creates a more subtle effect. To make it, you will do the following in the designated stitch:

  • Yarn over, put your hook through the stitch.
  • Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You should have 3 loops on your hook.
  • Yarn over and pull through the first loop only.
  • Then yarn over again and put your hook through the same stitch.
  • Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You should have 5 loops on your hook.
  • Yarn over and pull through all the loops.

Berry stitches are normally placed in-between single crochets – and this is what we will also do for the Square Berry Square pattern.

One important tip: keep your tension even but not too tight. You want the berry stitch to have some ‘puff’. You can give your piece a gentle tug after you yarn over to help get a more even and consistent result.

To make the Square Berry Square:

Make a loop and chain (CH) 32.

Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC across the remaining CHs. You should have a total of 31 stitches. CH 1 turn.

Row 2: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.

Row 3: This is where we start our pattern. You should place the following stiches: SC 1, *Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC in the next 7 SCs. Repeat from * for a total of 2 times. You should have 6 SCs left. Work them as follows: Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1 and SC 1. CH 1 and turn

Row 4: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.

Rows 5-8: repeat rows 3 and 4.

With those rows finished, you should have your first set of squares. In the following rows, we will start crocheting the next set of squares placing them in the space between the ones we have just crocheted.

Row 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1, SC 1, Berry 1. Repeat from * for a total of 2 times. SC in the last 7 stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 10: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn.

Rows 11-14: repeat rows 9 and 10.

Rows 3-14 represent the pattern repeat. To reach the correct length for your square you need to repeat those rows one more time. So this means:

Rows 15- 26: repeat rows 3-14.

Rows 27-32: repeat rows 3-8.

Row 33: SC across all the stitches. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and fasten off your yarn.

Weave in your ends. Your Square Berry Square is ready!

Here is also a diagram for those who are more visual crocheters:

Please note that empty cells represent single crochet stitches and ‘x”s stand for berry stitches. Each row finishes with a turning chain that is not represented in the diagram and does not count towards your stitch count.

Happy Crochet

The Triangle Puff Square: part 1 of the Geometric Squares Crochet Blanket

Geometric shapes and designs are my absolute favourite! I designed this Geometric Square Crochet Blanket so that it features different shapes. The blanket features four designs: triangles, hexagons, squares and rhombuses. Each design features a combination of the single crochet stitch and one of the following stitches: the puff, bobble, treble and berry stitches! Using these stitches gives the blanket a similar ‘bobbly’ texture which helps bring the designs together.

The pattern can be easily adapted as you can use your own colour preferences, pick and choose if you want to use a specific design more than another and you can also adapt the blanket size to fit your needs. You can also change the way that the crochet squares are joined up to give your blanket a different style. So the combinations are endless!

In this blog post, I will walk you through the first crochet blanket square featuring the Triangle Puff square. In subsequent blog posts I will share the other three designs and in a separate blog post I will go over how you can assemble the blanket squares and crochet a border as well as how many squares I needed of each design and the colours I used. Each crochet square measures approximately 8×8 inches. Check out part 2 of this blog series, featuring the Square Berry Square.

Check out the detailed written instructions below and directly below a video tutorial:

For the Triangle puff square you will need:

  • 4.00 mm crochet hook
  • DK yarn, I used Paintbox simply DK 100% acrylic in Dusty Rose (141) and Peach Orange (154) but you can use any other colour or yarn. If you use a different yarn you might end of up with a differently sized crochet square
  • Tapestry needle to weave in your ends
  • Pair of scissors

To make the Triangle puff square:

Make a loop and chain (CH) 32.

Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. Place a SC in each of the CH. You should have 31 stitches in total. CH 1 and turn your piece.

Row 2: SC in the first stitch. Then make a puff stitch. To make the puff stitch: *yarn over, put your hook through the loop, yarn over and pull through. You should have 3 loops on your hook. Repeat from * for a total of 4 times. You should then have a total of 9 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull your hook through all the loops.

Once you have completed your puff stitch, make as SC in the next stitch. For the rest of the row follow the following instructions: 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch and 1 SC. You should have a total of 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 3: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 4: 2 SCs, * 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 2 SCs, You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 5: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 6: 3 SCs, *1 puff stitch, 11 SCs. Repeat from * one more time. 1 puff stitch, 3 SCs, You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 7: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 8: *7 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch. Repeat from * one more time. SC 7. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 9: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 10: 8 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 1 SC, 1 puff stitch, 8 SCs. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 11: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 12: 9 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 11 SCs, 1 puff stitch, 9 SCs. You should have 31 stitches by the end of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Row 13: SC across the row. CH 1 and turn.

Rows 14 – 37: repeat rows 2-13.

Fasten off your yarn and weave in your ends.

Here is a diagram in case you prefer following a visual pattern:

The empty cells represent single crochet stitches and the ‘x’s are puff stitches. Note that each row finishes with a chain 1. This is a turning chain and does not count towards your stitch count.

Tips for making the puff stitch:

  • Each time you pull your hook through the stitch, give this a little tug to make sure no extra yarn has been caught. this will give your final stitch a good look.
  • Make sure that when you yarn over, that you keep your tension even but not too tight. This will help you when pulling your hook through all the loops.

Happy Crochet

Click here for Part 2 of the blanket, feature the Square Berry Square.

Bobbles baby blanket

A lovely baby boy blanket created using a combination of single crochet, chains and the bobble stitch. The addition of a ribbed border gives this blanket a lovely finish. The pattern uses two different coloured yarns: one for the bobble row and border and a different one for the rest of the blanket. You can use colours of your preference to adapt your blanket to your style.

The combinations are endless and the result always very pretty. You can use a variegated yarn for a stunning result (as in the blanket pictured in the pattern) or use different colours for the bobble row creating a rainbow or colour gradient effect. It is the perfect gift for a new baby! However, the pattern can be adapted to your preferred size so this would fit anyone, from babies to adults.

The blanket pictured in the photos measures 113cm (length) x 83cm (width), including the border. The amount of yarn specified below is for making this size blanket. Gauge is not particularly important for this pattern. If your tension is consistent throughout the blanket, this will provide you with a symmetrical shape for your blanket. If you are looking to crochet a blanket which is of similar size to the one pictured in this pattern the gauge for a 10 x 10 cm square should be 20 stitches by 18 rows.

  • A close up of the bobbles baby boy blanket using the yarn listed in the blog post
  • Same pattern using a white yarn as the main colour and different shades of blue and green for the bobble rows

What you will need:

About the pattern:

  • The pattern repeat is 14 chains plus 2. Chain sets of 14 chains until you are happy with the width. This will be the width of your blanket. Once you have reached your desired width, chain a further 2 chains.
  • To create the pattern, crochet 11 rows using a combination of single crochet / chain one. The 12th row is the bobble row. Then continue with another 11 rows of single crochet /chain one.
  • To crochet the blanket pictured in this pattern, 140 chains plus 2 are needed. Use Colour A for your chains.
  • Abbreviations (US terminology):
  • Chain – CH
  • Slip stitch – SL ST
  • Single stitch – SC
  • Bobble stitch – BO

Pattern instructions:

  • ROW 1: Still using Colour A, single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. Chain 1 (CH 1) and skip the next chain. SC in the next chain. Continue in this way along the entire chain. When you reach the last two chains, you should CH1 and SC in the last stitch. You should have 141 stitches. CH 1 and turn.
  • ROWS 2-11: Repeat ROW 1. Essentially, you will be doing a SC on top of the SC of the previous row and CH 1/skip chain on top of the previous CH 1/skip chain. Fasten off colour A.
  • ROW 12: Using colour B, BO in the first stitch and continue with SC 13. Repeat this 10 times. BO in the last stitch. In the same stitch do a slip stitch (SL ST). Fasten off colour B. Attach colour A, CH 1 and turn.
  • ROWS 13 – 23: Repeat ROW 1. Fasten off colour A.
  • ROW 24: Using colour B, SC 7, *BO, SC 13. Repeat from * until you have 8 stitches left. BO in the next stitch, SC in the remaining stitches. SL ST in the last stitch. Fasten off colour B. Attach colour A, CH 1 and turn.
  • Repeat ROWS 1- 24 until you are happy with the length of your blanket.
  • To finish off your blanket, repeat ROW 1 for 11 rows. This will make your blanket symmetrical. To create the length of the blanket pictured in this pattern, repeat ROWS 1-24 7 times. Then repeat ROW 12 and repeat ROW 1 for another 11 rows. Fasten off your yarn.
  • Weave in your ends.

Here is a video tutorial for making the bobble stitch:

To create the border:

  • Using Colour B, SC around the blanket. Add 3 SC to each corner. SL ST when you reach the start of your SC row. Repeat once more and fasten off your yarn.
  • Still using Colour B, attach your yarn on one corner and CH8. SC in the second chain from hook. SC across the rest of the chains towards the blanket. You should have 7SC.
  • To attach the border to the blanket, SL ST in the next two stitches. Turn your work and SC in the front loop of the next 6 stiches. Do a normal SC on the last stich. CH 1, SC 1 and SC in the front loop only in the next 6 stitches. Connect your border to the blanket by SL ST in the next two stitches.
  • Continue in the same way across the side of the blanket. On your last 7 SC row, SL ST only once. Fasten off your yarn.
  • Repeat the same on the opposite side of the blanket. Then tackle the two remaining sides in the same way by attaching the yarn at the edge of the border previously created.
  • Weave in your ends.

Happy Crochet!

Free Pattern – Crochet Napkin Rings

Ever thought of making your own crochet napkin rings?

These ‘braided’ crochet napkin rings are perfect for any occasion! You can make them in a single colour or using three colours for a more colourful look. You can match your yarn to the colour of your tablecloth or use a colour to match a celebration, like Christmas, Valentine’s or anything else!

This free crochet napkin rings pattern uses the crochet cables technique. You will find making this pattern easier if you already know how to make the front and back post double crochet as well as the front and back post treble crochet (US terminology).

Below the pattern written out in both US and UK terminology.

What you will need:

  • Cotton 4-ply or fingering weight yarn; I used Scheepjes Catona
    • The pale pink napkin ring is in Peach (523)
    • The ‘Christmas’ themed one uses yarn in the following 3 colours: Snow White (106), Hot Red (115) and Emerald (515) and
    • The ‘Valentine’s’ themed one uses yarn in the following 3 colours: Peach (523), Shocking Pink (114) and Garden Rose (251).
  • Crochet hook in size 3mm
  • A darning needle
  • A pair of scissors

For all you visual learners, here is also a video tutorial:

Pattern instructions (US terminology):

  • Chain (CH) 15 plus 1.
  • Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook and across all remaining chains. You should have 15 SC. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 2: Place one back post double crochet (DC) across all stitches (15 stitches). CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 3: Make one front post treble (TR) crochet in the sixth stitch. Place another front post TR in the next four stitches (the seventh, eighth, ninth and tenth stitches). Then you will work into the first five stitches that you skipped over. Make a front post TR in the first five stitches of that row to create your first cable. Place a simple front post DC in the last five stitches of the row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 4: Place one back post DC across all stitches (15 stitches). Make sure you crochet into them in the right order so as to preserve the cable effect you created in the previous row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 5: Make one front post DC in the first five stitches of the row. Then make a front post TR stitch in the last five stitches of the row. Then you need to work a front post TR stitch in each of the five stitches in the middle that you skipped over. You need to work the stitches in the back of the front post TRs that you worked in the last five stitches of the row. The easiest way to do that is to turn your work towards you and create some room to place your hook behind the stitches you have already worked. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 6: Place one back post DC across all stitches (15 stitches). Make sure you crochet into them in the right order so as to preserve the cable effect you created in the previous row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 7: repeat row 3
  • Row 8: repeat row 4
  • Row 9: repeat row 5
  • Row 10: repeat row 6
  • Repeat rows 3-6 until you have completed row 18. Your piece should measure approx. 5.5 inches or 14cm.
  • With your yarn still attached, place together the beginning and end of your piece with the good sides touching each other. Bring your loop through the right side so you can work along both sides to join them. CH 1 and slip stitch across the 15 stitches on both sides to connect your pieces into a ring. CH 1 and bind off.
  • Weave in your ends using a darning needle.
  • Repeat to create as many crochet napkin rings as you want!

Pattern instructions (UK terminology):

  • Chain (CH) 15 plus 1.
  • Row 1: Double crochet (DC) in the second chain from hook and across all remaining chains. You should have 15 DC. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 2: Place one back post treble crochet (TR) across all stitches (15 stitches). CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 3: Make one front post double treble (DTR) crochet in the sixth stitch. Place another front post DTR in the next four stitches (the seventh, eighth, ninth and tenth stitches). Then you will work into the first five stitches that you skipped over. Make a front post DTR in the first five stitches of that row to create your first cable. Place a simple front post TR in the last five stitches of the row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 4: Place one back post TR across all stitches (15 stitches). Make sure you crochet into them in the right order so as to preserve the cable effect you created in the previous row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 5: Make one front post TR in the first five stitches of the row. Then make a front post DTR stitch in the last five stitches of the row. Then you need to work a front post DTR stitch in each of the five stitches in the middle that you skipped over. You need to work the stitches in the back of the front post DTRs that you worked in the last five stitches of the row. The easiest way to do that is to turn your work towards you and create some room to place your hook behind the stitches you have already worked. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 6: Place one back post TR across all stitches (15 stitches). Make sure you crochet into them in the right order so as to preserve the cable effect you created in the previous row. CH 1 and turn.
  • Row 7: repeat row 3
  • Row 8: repeat row 4
  • Row 9: repeat row 5
  • Row 10: repeat row 6
  • Repeat rows 3-6 until you have completed row 18. Your piece should measure approx. 5.5 inches or 14cm.
  • With your yarn still attached, place together the beginning and end of your piece with the good sides touching each other. Then bring your loop through the right side so you can work along both sides to join them. CH 1 and slip stitch across the 15 stitches on both sides to connect your pieces into a ring. CH 1 and bind off.
  • Weave in your ends using a darning needle.
  • Repeat to create as many crochet napkin rings as you want!

Happy Crochet

Valentine’s crochet hearts cushion

A while back I posted a free tutorial and instructions for how to make a 2x2inch crochet heart applique. You can use appliques in lots of ways from customising and upcycling clothing and accessories to making some fun bunting.

With Valentine’s approaching, I thought I would show you how to use the same crochet heart applique to make a Valentine’s cushion! It is super easy and fun to make. You can make it from scratch or buy a cushion cover. I will be using a 15x15inch cushion but you can adapt to any size you want.

What you will need

  • Light/DK Cotton yarn in colours of your choice. I chose pink and red and the yarn I used was this but any similar weight yarn will do
  • A size 3.00 crochet hook
  • Darning needle
  • A pair of scissors
  • Fabric glue (optional but useful!)
  • Pins
  • Sewing needle and thread to match the colour of your heart appliques
  • Iron and non-synthetic towel (for blocking your heart appliques)
  • A 15x15inch cushion cover in white or other matching colour of your preference. I made my own and included instructions at the end of this post. But you can definitely buy or repurpose one you already have!

Making the heart appliques

I made the heart appliques following the instructions from a previous tutorial I had posted. Below the YouTube tutorial, and here the link to the blog where you will find detailed instructions.

For a 15x15inch cushion, you will need 25 heart appliques. I made 20 crochet hearts in the colour pink and 5 in the colour red. I only needed one 50g ball of the yarn to make 20 appliques. I would have had enough leftover to do the full 25 but I wanted a two-toned cushion cover. You can use just one or multiple colours, depending on your preference! A rainbow or gradient coloured cushion would also look stunning!

How to block your crocheted hearts

I am not a fan of blocking but in this case it makes sense. It will help you later on when you are gluing and/or sewing your hearts.

Take a small towel and make sure half of it is wet though not dripping. Place the dry side on your ironing board and a couple of your hearts on it. Once you are happy with how your hearts are sitting, fold over the other half of the towel and cover them. Place your iron on top of the wet towel, where your hearts are for just a few seconds. There will be some steam so take care not to burn yourself. But after only a few seconds, your heart should look and feel more straight and stiff. Repeat for all your hearts and set aside to fully dry.

In the picture below, the heart on the left has been blocked. You can see it is more flat compared to the one on the right.

Placing your hearts

Place the front of your cushion cover flat on your work surface. Start arranging your hearts in different ways until you are happy with the final look. (As I am making my own cushion cover, I am placing my hearts on a piece of cotton that will eventually be the front of my cushion).

Think about how you want the crocheted hearts displayed before you crochet all your heart appliques, as this may mean you need more or less from one colour. I used 20 pink hearts and 5 red ones and placed them in 5 rows and 5 columns. The second column from the left was red hearts only and the rest were pink.

Here are some other designs I tried out in case they give you some further inspiration!

Once you are happy with the placement, take a measuring tape to ensure your hearts are as evenly spaced as possible. You should have around 3 inches of distance between the heart columns and 1.5 inches between your rows. See photo below.

Every time you double-check the placement of one of your hearts, pin them in place with a couple of pins. Make sure you only pin them to the front part of your cushion cover. If you are finding it difficult, put a piece of cardboard in the cushion cover so your pin doesn’t catch the back of your cushion cover.

Once you have everything measured and pinned, use your fabric glue and glue the hearts in place. Follow the instructions of your glue as those can vary. To be extra sure the glue wont react badly to your fabric, try it on a scrap piece of your fabric to see how it dries. Once the fabric glue is dry, you can sew the hearts in place for added security.

If you don’t have fabric glue, make sure you pin your hearts super well as you will rely on them for keeping the hearts in place for sewing them. I didn’t use any fabric glue and just took care when sewing the hearts and it all worked out!

Take your corresponding coloured thread and sew all around the hearts picking up the edges of your heart but without your sewing disturbing the very top edge of your stitches that look like V’s. Your stitches on the top should be short and small to ensure the thread doesn’t show.

When you are done, add your cushion insert and the final result should look something like this:

Hope you make this Valentine’s crochet hearts cushion!

Happy Crochet (and Sewing)!

To make the cushion cover (if you are so inclined!):

  • Get some white cotton fabric and cut one 16x16inch piece. This will give you a 0.5 inch seam around your cushion. Feel free to make the seam wider if this is more comfortable for you.
  • From the same fabric, cut two pieces that are 16x10inches. This cushion cover will be removable so it will have an ‘envelop’ closing in the back. I can then make buttonholes with my sewing machine or I can sew in some sewing hooks or metal snap fasteners.
  • I recommend sewing your hearts to the front making sure you place them within the 15×15 space that will eventually make up your cushion. Once that is done, set it aside.
  • Take your 16×10 inch pieces. Make a nice seam for your cushion closure by making a 0.5 inch fold across the 16inch side of your piece. Repeat it one more time and finger-press and iron the seam. Your piece should now measure 16x9inches. Repeat on the other piece and using your sewing machine, sew along the folded edge on both pieces.
  • Take your font piece and place it on your work space, front side facing up. Place the two back pieces on top with the folded edges meeting in the middle. Mark where the buttonholes should go if using them. Make them using the sewing machine.
  • Replace the piece with the buttonholes making sure it is directly placed on the front piece and the second piece is on top overlapping in the middle. This creates the button closure.
  • Pin along all four sides and take to your sewing machine and sew around the piece with a 0.5inch seam allowance.
  • Turn your piece inside you and your cushion cover is ready!

Free pattern – Crochet Thistle Headband

If you are as excited as me about the Thistle Stitch, you will love this quick and easy headband pattern. I used acrylic yarn but you may want to try a more natural fibre especially if making this for little ones!

I have adapted the Thistle Stitch to accommodate various headband sizes and also ensure there is enough space for the top twist. The headband is worked in the flat and is stitched together at the end. It is a very easy and quick project, written in US terminology!

The measurements below are based on using a 3.5mm crochet hook and Paintbox DK 100% acrylic yarn. In terms of tension, you should aim for a 2x2inch piece 10 stitches x 10 rows or alternatively make your own swatch and adapt the pattern repeat as needed. If you still need to tweak the sizing, switch your hook size by going a half size smaller or larger.

In the table above, the 14 chains in the last column represent the pattern repeat and the number this is multiplied by. The 11 chains represent the additional chains for making the basic Thistle Stitch pattern. The 1 chain represents your turning chain and the remaining number is the number of additional stitches on the two edges. These are worked in the single crochet. So bear that number in mind when working up your pattern. Below is a visual illustration using the 0-3 months pattern size.

This is a graph depicting the Thistle Stitch Headband Pattern for the 0-3months size. For that size, the total number of chains is 50, the last chain is your turning chain. The graph breaks down which chains/stitches make up which area of the headband. A set of single crochets frame the thistle stitch pattern at the beginning and the end. These are added so that you have enough space to tie the headband without disrupting the thistle pattern.

T = thistle stitch, X = decrease, L = securing leaves/loops, F = flower stitch, C = chain. Empty cells represent single crochets. Chain 1 at the end of each row is not included. Check out the dedicated blog post for the Thistle Stitch tutorial.

What you will need:

  • A size 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • Paintbox DK acrylic yarn, for the headbands in the photos, I used the colours Dusty Lilac (146) & Vintage Pink (155). The amount of yarn depends on size but for the adult you will require around 50 grams
  • A pair of scissors
  • A darning needle
  • Stitch markers (optional)

Pattern instructions:

Chain (CH) as many chains needed for your preferred size.

Row 1: single crochet (SC) into the second chain from hook. Single crochet across the rest of the chains. CH 1 and turn.

Row 2 and until you are happy with the height of the headband: start the Thistle stitch pattern bearing in mind the additional stitches at the beginning and end of your piece. Use stitch markers if needed to remind yourself where the additional stitches are. Check out my detailed blog post and video tutorial here for more information about how to make the Thistle stitch. Repeat the Thistle stitch pattern for as long as you want to get the right height for your headband. I recommend making 3 rows of thistles for the pattern sizes Teen and Adult and 2 rows for the rest.

On the last row of thistle stitches, finish off your flower by making a CH 1 but without starting a new set of thistle stitches. Instead place a single crochet in those stitches.

Last two rows: single crochet across all the stitches. CH 1 at the end of your row. On the last row, bind off.

To finish off your headband, pick up your darning needle and sew the shorter end of the yarn which formed your first chain. Then, put your piece flat on your work surface with the good side facing up. Pick up each of the sides and fold them in the middle so the two edges of the short sides are meeting each other. Bring them together and overlap the folded edges. See photos below.

Using your darning needle again, sew the pieces together following the S shape that the interlocked pieces have created. Sew two sides together each time rather than try to sew all of the sides together at once. This will give your finished piece a neater look. See the photos below for an illustration of how the piece should be sewn together.

Weave in the ends and there you go, your headband is ready for wearing or gifting to a loved one!

Happy Crochet!

Thistle stitch step by step tutorial

Have you ever tried the thistle stitch? Uncovered it recently as one of the many amazing stitches in the book ‘200 Crochet Stitches’ by Sarah Hazell. As a self-taught crocheter who has mainly used YouTube for learning new stitches and techniques, I was so pleasantly surprised to find out about so many more stitches that I have yet to try. The book is written in UK terminology and as I am comfortable using both UK and US terms, I have loved going through this book! So highly recommend it, especially if you follow or are comfortable with using UK terminology. But I digress!

In this post, I will show you a slightly adapted thistle stitch written in US terminology. I have included both written instructions with photos and a video tutorial which also shows you how to change colours to give your stitch the colours of a proper thistle flower! Check out my separate blog post here to see how I used it to make a pretty headband. It is worked in the flat, but the stitch can be worked also in the round, like I have done for my Thistle Flower Beanie pattern, available on my Etsy store (coming soon).

I used a 3.5 mm hook and Paintbox acrylic DK yarn in the colours Seafoam Blue (131), Slate Green (126) and Dusty Lilac (146).

How to make the thistle stitch

The pattern repeat is 14 chains (CH). You will then add another 12 CH. Using the yarn and hook mentioned in this post should give you a piece that is approximately 4.5inches (11cm) wide between two thistle stitches.

Directly below a video tutorial (which explains the colour changes) and further below the detailed written instructions:

Row 1: Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from hook. SC in the next 4 chains. In the 6th chain work the following: *1 SC, CH 8, 1 SC, CH 10, 1 SC CH 8, 1 SC. This will make your thistle stem and leaves. For ease of reference, let’s call this the thistle stitch. So each time that I indicate that you should make the thistle stich, you will repeat this sequence of stitches and chains. Place 1 SC in each of the next 13 CH. Make another thistle stitch in the next CH. Repeat from * until you have 6 CH left. Make a thistle stitch and SC in the last 5 CH. CH 1 and turn your piece.

Row 2: SC across the first 5 stitches. You will now have arrived at your first thistle stitch. In the previous round you created a number of additional stitches but we want to keep our piece straight so we will skip some and crochet together others so that you maintain your original number of stitches. So for each thistle stitch, you will skip the first SC and CH 8. You will work a decrease in the next two SCs (skipping the CH 10) and skip the last CH 8 and SC. When you are working your decrease, make sure that the loops you create are facing forward and that the yarn is not tangled between them. This will give you a nicer finish. SC across all the other stitches. When you have reached the end of your row, CH 1 and turn. To double check that you have crocheted this row correctly, count your stitches. You should have the same number of stitches as the number of chains you made minus one chain which acted as your turning chain on the first row.

Row 3: SC across all stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 4: SC in each of the first two stitches. *Picking up the first CH 8 from row 1, SC in the next stitch. SC in the next five stitches. Pick up the second CH 8 from row 1 and SC in the next stitch. SC along the next 7 stiches. Repeat from * until you have two stitches left. SC across both, CH 1 and turn.

Row 5: SC across all stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 6: SC in the first 5 stitches. Picking up the CH 10 from row 1, make 6 double crochets (DC) in the next stitch. Let’s call this the flower stitch. SC across the next 13 stitches. Repeat from * until you have 6 stitches left. Make another flower stitch and SC across the remaining 5 stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 7: Make 5 SCs and *CH 1 skipping the flower stitch. Make 6 SCs and then make a thistle stitch in the next stitch. Crochet another 6 SCs. Repeat from * until you have 6 stitches left. CH 1 and skip the flower stitch. SC across the remaining 5 stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 8: SC across all stitches. Work the thistle stitches like you did on row 2. CH 1 and turn.

Row 9: SC across all stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 10: SC in the first 9 stitches. *Pick up the first CH 8 like you did on row 4 and SC in the next 5 stitches. Pick up the other CH 8. SC in the next 7 stitches. Repeat from * until you have 9 stitches on your row. SC across the remaining stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 11: SC across all stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 12: SC in the first 12 stitches. * Make a flower stitch and SC in the next 13 stitches. Repeat from * until you have only 12 stitches left. SC across the remaining stitches. CH 1 and turn.

Row 13: SC in the first 5 stitches. Make a thistle stitch. SC in the next 6 stitches. and CH 1 skipping the flower stitch. Repeat from * until you have 6 stitches left. Make one thistle stitch in the next stitch and SC in the remaining ones. CH 1 and turn. (Row 14 and onwards) Repeat rows 2-13.

To finish your piece, depending on what your project is and what kind of border you might be thinking of adding, I suggest finishing off on a row where you have completed your flower stitches. Then make another 2 rows with SC. For the first row, CH 1 and skip the flower stitch.

The below graph image provides you with a simplified overview of how the stitch works up.

T = thistle stitch, X = decrease, L = securing leaves/loops, F = flower stitch, C = chain. Empty cells represent single crochets. Chain 1 at the end of each row is
not included.

Tip: If you want to work the pattern in the round, add 3 more chains to your work!

Happy Crochet!

Boho Dreams Crochet Cushion Pattern

If you love Boho or Bohemian style, then this is the pattern for you. It uses a few different stitches to create wonderful texture with a very organic feel and it uses a neutral coloured yarn which enhances the boho effect. You can of course swap out the yarn and use one that has a more vibrant colour!

The pattern is available for purchase on my Etsy shop here.

About the pattern:

The cushion cover fits a 14 x 14 insert perfectly but it can also be adapted for smaller or larger cushions. The cushion is worked up in the flat and is made up of 3 pieces so the cover is removable:

  1. The front panel which is worked in a single piece and for which there is a row by row overview of the pattern as well as a schematic for anyone who is a more visual crocheter.
  2. The back panel which is made up of two pieces. Depending on whether you want to include buttons or not, the two pieces can be identical or one will have a some holes to accommodate the buttons. The back panels are made up in single crochet.

Cushion assembly instructions are provided and you can either use a darning needle and some extra yarn to put the cushion together or (and this is my personal preference), use your hook and slip stitch around the panels.

The pattern also includes video tutorials for making the stiches. Those include some very beginner-friendly ones such as the single crochet stitch, the treble crochet stitch and the bobble stitch as well as some more advanced ones such as the loop stitch.

Check out the stitches required:

Check out the video tutorials below to get an idea of the level of difficulty of this pattern.

Single crochet stitch tutorial:

Treble crochet stitch tutorial:

Bobble stitch tutorial:

Loop stitch tutorial: